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No Pictures, but I built a really simple one for 5 tap handles with a 2x4 and a few bolts/nuts/washers. Bascially, you can drill 5 ~7/16" holes through the 2x4 at equal intervals. Then, take 3/4" or 1" spade bit and ream out the back/bottom of each of the holes about 2/3 of the way through...

+1 I was in a similar position and decided to go the DIY route. I spent a little more than $750, but I got a really nice welder out of the deal (Hobart Handler 187) as well as a new skill, which I've already planned on using to save some dough on a few other projects. Learning to MIG weld...

FWIW, I used 2"x2" 16 ga tubing on my single tier, and I think it was WAY overkill. Once it was welded up, I could stand on it, jump up and down, and do whatever I wanted and it wouldn't budge a bit. This was the same standing on the individual kettle support bars along the top too, not just...

Agree that Mudvayne is fairly solid. Also, oh yeah, me likee some Lacuna Coil. I enjoy their music every once in a while too :ban:

I don't know the exact answer to your question, but please at least read the information in these links and do some additional research before you brew again. From what I see here, it appears that the Zinc is the problematic part and that if it does get hot enough while you're brewing, it could...

Cool, thank you very much guys. I'll check into these suggestions and see what I can find.

I'm refurbishing an Angram beer engine and I need to replace the seals for the cylinder. The only problem is that I can't find out where to buy them or what they're actually called. I talked to the guy at UK brewing and he was great, but he said that they'd be out of stock for probably a month...

Thanks for the heads-up. I Checked with the local supplier, though, and 1/16" = $2.25/ft, 1/8" = $3.85/ft. Looks like I'll give the 1/16" a shot.:ban:

Well, I have four of these: Caster 5". Total Lock Threaded Stem. Poly Wheel - eBay (item 110159346227 end time Oct-07-08 04:55:36 PDT) They seem like they should fit the bill.

Cool, thanks a lot Sleepy. I know homebrewers have a tendency to over-engineer a bit (that's part of the fun :) ), but I figured I should just make sure so that I don't have 12 gallons of boiling wort collapse on me or something.

I'm looking to build a single-tier brutus-type stand, and I am wondering if 2" x 2" x 1/16" mild steel would be sufficient. Most of what I've seen has been 1/8" tubing, but that seems like overkill to me, especially since I'll probably be adding 2 vertical braces on both the front and the back...

Some people have reported using something like this instead of cask breathers with pretty good results. You don't need a secondary regulatory at a lower pressure this way, just a T in main line set to whatever pressure you'd be using for the other line(s). Ace - Ace Tree: Heating & Cooling...

Wow. Is this through MO Malt Supply? Regardless, if you could let me know the details I'd be very interested. I'm moving to St Louis in a few months and would love to get in on something like this. :ban:

Cool. I have a 2A as well, and it works great. Here's a pic (yeah, it's under the bucket somewhere :-) )

FWIW, he's quite happy with the setup and how it works for him.

One of the guys in my club does exactly what you're talking about. Here are some pics.

Here's a link describing how I built mine with an inexpensive igloo cooler. It works well and gets me ~75% efficiency for 5.5 gal batches. Cooler Mash Tun

I've bought stuff at both places, and I don't think you can go wrong with either. The Red Salamander is pretty comparable to Things Beer I think, and Karl, the owner, is a nice guy and is really helpful with all kinds of things brewing related. Also, there's a brewpub in town call Harper's...

FWIW, a lot of gear shift knobs have the same threads (3/8 x 16 coarse) as tap handles. There are some pretty nice shift knobs out there that would make cool tap handles.

I have one of those that I used to run my mill for a few months. I got a good deal on a motor shortly thereafter, so I mounted that permanently, but the D-handle drill powered through the grain bill pretty well for the time I used it.