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Any of the tap-rite or similar regulators sold for kegging will be fine. If you can get a package with a y-splitter, shutoff valves, check valves and captive nut barbs, then go for that. A y-splitter will let you carb one keg while serving another, or just seal up a keg for natural...

It takes time for carbonic acid to convert to dissolved CO2 and then to be released by degassing. This shows up when carbing kegs of beer as well, btw. It takes time for force carbed kegs to settle to equilibrium.

Yes, it is. A simpler method though is to measure OG with refractometer and hydrometer, then measure FG with both. Something like Beersmith will let you tweak the correction factors until those measurements are all consistent. Note that Zymurgy a couple of issues back had an article...

CO2 coming out of solution does not mean that fermentation is still going on. You need to check the gravity now vs a week ago. If it hasn't changed, it's done.

No, a single simple PID loop can't "know" the heat capacity of your entire mash+tun+RIMS system, and how fast it can ramp the mash temperature for your flow rate through the RIMS heater. What you need for that is an adaptive nested control loop type system. This is somewhat similar how the...

If you have good temperature control, you can do the Brulosophy rapid lager process with lager yeast, and turn around a lager in 21 days. http://brulosophy.com/methods/lager-method/

I hope so, with the higher temps and extended agitation. Although the Tinseth formula is based on whole cone hops and pellet hops reportedly get lower utilization (Brulosophy recently, YMMV considerably). I also hope the extended immersion of a NEIPA style dry hop will work for me with my...

When I arrived in the US (Massachusetts) six years ago, it was pretty much $10 a six pack almost everywhere for basic craft beer - SNPA, Sam Adams, etc.. Now it's between $10 and $12 a six pack for the same beers, although I've moved out of expensive Cambridge into the marginally cheaper...

I prefer Real Ale to True Beer. ;)

My 1.050 OG NE Pale Ale with WYeast 1318 brewed on Saturday (see the megathread for details) and pitched at about 5pm kicked off krausen forming fermentation in the early afternoon yesterday, 20 hours after pitching a fresh smack-pack, and hit 1.010 and fading fermentation heat production* at...

There's also the question of utilization of whole hops. I did a 20 min whirlpool with 2oz of dried home-grown cascade on Saturday. As I was taking the hops out to the compost bin, I noticed that most of the lupulin glands were still intact in the cones...

There are different kinds of haze. You want hop oil haze, not yeast in suspension haze (which causes a general green-beer flavor). Cold crashing will drop the yeast, and any hop particles, but it won't drop the hop oils nearly as fast.

The yeast is Conan, so yes, lots of people will have used it. IIRC, the NEIPA I did with Conan was done fermenting in about 36 hours after the krausen formed. So get the dry hops in at about 20-24 hours. Or do it tomorrow morning. Get everything prepped tonight, and it won't take 5 minutes.

I've decided to use some of the techniques from this thread, while deviating from the NEIPA style. Today I'm brewing a more traditional pale ale hop bill, using homegrown cascade, but using a NEIPA style grain bill and hop schedule, and 1318 yeast. This is very much an experiment to try to...

There's this induction cooktop that was linked near the end of the cheap induction thread. That's a 208V model, but there is a 120V version which should be adequate for heating lower heat capacity oil to 125F. That's confirmed to work with a PID/SSR, although there's a few seconds delay in the...

My local brewery makes a beer that looks a lot like an NEIPA - Battle Road 1775 Tavern Ale, which is hazy and pale orange, made with Styrian Golding hops and Westvleteren yeast. Unfortunately, it's their only interesting beer. I don't know if they are doing something that's very like what the...

As a random thought, I think I'd suggest an induction cooktop and an induction compatible kettle rather than immersion elements. Both for the low watt density, to avoid any hot spots or potential ignition, and to avoid gaskets that might possibly interact with the oils. It should be fine to add...

Have you dismantled the spigot to clean it? Like the bottling bucket spigots, it does come apart with some force. I had my Speidel that I use as a cask get an infection, but leaving bleach solution in it for a week fixed it.

Just don't drop them into a glass carboy...

1 gallon BOMM. Half now aging on blueberries, half bottled. 348