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Rims shouldn't need a full 5500w, many builds run a low density 1650 or similar and even that doesn't see full power all the time. That said, you probably wouldn't have all three elements running at once if you're doing a 2 batch day. Highest draw would probably be bringing batch 1 to boil...

https://conical-fermenter.com/wc30x1/2-ss-tc-670_stainless-steel-wort-chiller.html https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/topsfloss.htm Or https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/chuggermaxtefcss.htm There should be almost zero reason for the big pump, but I have considered using a long run of...

I did my controller rebuild mostly off of Amazon and came in under $200 - https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/biab-controller-rebuild-240-25a.656970/ I agree with your comment about spending a reasonable amount to make upgrades like the rotary switches and lights versus the 20amp light...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-8-in-Drive-Impact-Screwdriver-Set-7-Piece-2905/205674679

There exists a domed lid design that is also useful for other applications. You might consider a dual purpose approach when you design the steam lid.

That's a monster CFC. Who makes that one? Also, that device in the front looks like it might convert gases to liquids to be used for vehicle fuel (or something like that) [emoji16]

It will make the water warmer, but unless you run the faucet pretty slow I'm not sure you'll ever get hot water.

Auber has a table on their website for intended applications. https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=53 If you look at the controller manual there is an appendix where they describe the fundamental difference between their unit and a standard PID...

PM me your address and you can have a basic one for free. If you're going to buy one, the software in the Auber EZ Boil requires almost no tuning. I'm glad I upgraded, but plenty of people have had success getting normal PIDs running.

Adding elements to your existing HLT and BK is pretty easy: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/elementkit_tcrip_wl.htm After that the most economical approach would be to build your own controller but if you prefer to buy a pre built then you have a few budget options. Basic power control...

I've used my ArborFab mash basket as a hop filter during the boil. The thumping under the basket is irritating, the liquid in the basket does ultimately boil but not rigorously, and the whole screen tends to plug up with break material. For me it wasn't worth the hassle, I just let the hops...

That jumper you pictured is probably OK, can you grab a picture of the whole interior of the controller? The part number on the switch would be helpful as well.

Regarding your second question on the small kegs. It would still be easier to use a low pressure secondary regulator at the fridge instead of running a high pressure line. You could run 100psi to the fridge, then put in a tee and one of these for the beer line...

You don't have to supply the soda stream higher pressure than it uses, even if it is designed to take full tank pressure. Using standard gas line at 60-100 psi would be much easier and more economical.

The Brew Hardware kit is the easiest and a very effective route. Buy the power cord from them too, it's nice and clean. Brew Hardware has a hole saw bit that would work just fine, otherwise you can get a step bit from harbor freight and then expand the opening as needed with a file or a Dremel...

The gas won't mind a long uninsulated run. No insulation required.

Awesome news. Use plenty of caution until you've verified all the grounds and connected and powered up the element+pump. If there's problems that's when they'd probably show up. Good luck and safe brewing.

In that case, double check the connections from the power input against the wiring diagram. Best practice would be to keep your ground and neutral separate.

Is this a 120v panel? Your use of grounding wires in that trace is a little puzzling. Also I circled where to stab those red things. Connect the blocks together left to right, it marries the three individuals into one combined block.

You want to ground that back panel, easiest would be at the mounting screw. Also the front door, there is a stud for that. Finally I like to ground the ssr and heat sink using one of its mounting screws just to be on the safe side. Then use a meter and check continuity between the enclosure...