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https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/switch-help.661963/ There are bunches of threads around here with that same basic configuration. Some of the "should I DIY everything or start from a kit" question comes down to how much do you want to learn. For example, you mention a desire for an...

Having the legs touching the element won't hurt it, but the Brew Hardware legs are also removable. You can slightly bend the element out of the way too.

Before I went to a basket I used a bag with the element on. It works, but not well. Some tips: 1. I experienced a big gradient between the temperature in the middle of the grain bed and the edges/top. If I measured the top right after I opened the lid it would show a loss of 10f, then I'd stir...

+1 on these, my first one overheated and blew white sticky insulation out of the back, but my second one has been working great for a while now. No recirculation loose hops, but very quiet and adequate flow. If I ever upgrade it would need to be similarly quiet with at least a full size...

It's hard to get the grain bag or basket out without disturbing the grain bed. The result is more of that dust will shake out. It would certainly be possible to fight some of that by lifting very gently and slowly, not squeezing or pressing, and then adding a long whirl pool after the boil...

Short answer, yep. The element will work best if you keep the bag or basket a little away so there is some free liquid to heat. The probe can either be mounted in the tee as you describe, or directly in the kettle. Direct kettle mount is my preference, but many prefer the tee. Your kettle...

Exactly, I ended up buying this cord: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/nemal630rcord.htm And used it with an element like this: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/elementkit_tcrip_solder.htm

It is DRAMATICALLY easier to clear a hop leaf or yeast clump when you can pull the little tubes out one by one.

No issue at all. I went one step further using only one plug at the element but your approach would work.

Sure thing, this might be the best I have on my phone. It is basically at the same height as the element and the pickup tube. The basket sits a little above everything. I used an eBay probe that had a decent shoulder on it so that I could directly mount in a hole like the "true bulkheads" from...

If you take a temperature reading at 5-10 places around your kettle/mash there will be some variation no matter what. The better your recirculation the less variation, but there will always be some. My probe is under the basket, and positioned away from the element, but admittedly somewhat...

I recirculated during boil for a while but find that a bit of a pain. I ended up moving the probe to the kettle and have been happy with the performance of that configuration.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/search/3491059/?q=diagram&t=post&o=relevance&g=1&c[node]=170&c[user][0]=189994 Back to your parts list, everything in there looks just fine. I don't personally think the removable "power in" cord adds much value and it complicates the assembly, but many...

I like having the ability to get my strike water heating up and holding at temp without having to babysit it. It means I'm able to work on other stuff, or get distracted, without overshooting and having to stand around waiting for it to cool. Since you're set up to do HERMS you'll get even more...

If you're only doing safe start on a single relay/load it seems to me like there might even be a simpler solution. Would have to defer to the pros on this one

The Auber temp relay offers dramatically more functionality if you don't mind the price. A neat use case would be automatically turning off the chiller water once the wort is lower than 75. You could also wire in an alarm in case your mash tun temperature went over 170.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172346437675 Do you have space in your panel to just add a meter?

The fourth wire is just a ground, a three wire probe should work just fine. You will either need to disassemble the plug on your existing cable or order a spare cable from blichmann and take that apart. The alternative would be to open the controller and swap out the panel mounted connector...

Unless someone else voices a solution I think I would write it off to a bad part and order a new one

Might confirm the coil voltage on the relay just in case they shipped you a 240v instead of 120. Otherwise it could be stuck, tap it with something non-conductive and see if it flips on.