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Most controllers will let you change the total cycle time. On for 0.7sec and off for 0.3 instead of on for 7 sec and off for 3.

http://ebsp200.ebrew.supply/ Finding the manual was the best I could do.

There are jumpers on the switches that aren't called out on the wiring diagram you posted so I'm going to be a little limited in the help I can give. Going back to the beginning you mentioned that the pump outlets have power, but it sounds like the main relay has no power at 1 and 3. This would...

Is there anything at a1 and a2 when the switch is on?

You get colored pencils since it's what I had. If you use the Normally Closed side of that e-stop it will be "on" when it's up and cut off as soon as you hit the button. You could use the button instead of the main on/off switch if you wanted. As far as the outlet inside the box, you could go...

Building a brew house is like buying a bike or a car. If you like the way it looks you will enjoy using it more. A quick study might notice that Kevin has a 14'x8' giant roll up vent that he could be using instead of that hood. Presumably aesthetics helped influence his design. [emoji6] I...

I can see getting confused on those, but I do like that they integrated safe start into their plan. @doug293cz has a diagram drawn up that had everything but the alarm/timer section. He might be able to re-share. The most confusing part on their diagram might be that they flipped the main...

For the Spa panel to the wall power I would simply put the panel over that outlet you uncovered and wire it directly in. I would use a 4-prong range/dryer receptical at the spa panel to plug the controller into. I used pre-made cords with the plugs in them to save money and they work great...

Most will click, yeah. To trouble shot that contactor plug in the controller, switch the main switch off, and grab your multimeter. Set it to volts and check these: 2 and 4 - 220v A1 and A2 - 0v 1 and 3 - 0v Then turn on the switch: 2 and 4 - 220v A1 and A2 - 110v 1 and 3 - 220v

Can you describe the contactor problem a bit more? You say it doesn't turn on, but that the panel outlets are hot. Does that mean that the main contactor is allowing power through (stuck closed)? Trouble shooting from this point is going to involve a multimeter and checking the connections...

Pro: it will work fine and never rust. Con: it will look like an upside down plastic tub hanging over your kettle.

Ok HBT, I was wrong, you were right, I should have never doubted you. Today I went to do a test in my panel and had my volt meter on the wrong setting. I arced the 120v inputs on the back of my Auber controller and the display immediately went black. After about 15 seconds of sighing...

You should be able to measure DC voltage from the back of the Auber when it is on and firing.

Nope. If you're doing 120v (load/neutral) there consensus is to use the SSR on the load side. It works the same either way though, so for 240 just pick the one easiest to wire.

No power to the contactor switch looks like the biggest problem to me, the color coding choices are mostly for clarity. If that's a 240v coil and a standard 2-NO 3-POS selector you could fix it like this, include a fuse to protect low amperage wires and components.

If you cover the whole surface with masking tape or painter's tape you can use a ruler and a pen to draw lines and get everything centered. Then you can drill right through the tape. I found it helpful to actually position the buttons and switches physically on the box. It helped me make sure I...

Hey Jay, have you ever tried machining a female loc-line fitting? It would be neat to take this mash plate and fabricate the stem end to snap onto a moveable 1/2" loc-line arm.

I think you'd have to describe your goal a little more. Is the idea to physically unplug the controller (temp probe and element) from the HLT (120v) and then plug it into the BK (240v)?

It's always fun to get a reminder on an old thread. The Auber DSPR sends a signal to a solid state relay to turn on and off, so it doesn't care what voltage is going through the relay. It can be used to control 120, 240, or both depending on how you have things wired up. Since my post was at...

You don't have to use any plugs if you don't want. I find it very convenient to be able to disconnect everything from the kettle for cleaning, but other than that I didn't use plugs.