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I would use the 220 outlet and the kettle you already have built and just put a box fan in the window when you brew. Way easier to control boil overs with electric, your controller plan is fundamentally safe, the outlet has ample power. Brew, clean up, done [emoji482]

Yup, it only sees enough current to turn on the contactor.

You could use a 240v coil contactor. Packard C230C 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor 208/240 Volt Coil Contactor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YW5CWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_X8vTCbV8XHJJX You could also use a 5v version and then use a physical switch or turn it on and off with the rPi Yeeco 30A High...

Unfortunately both legs see the same amps, you need a fully rated switch either way. You could use those switches with a contactor which wouldn't be too expensive...

Do they need to be 20a? Above 10a or so you end up in a heavier duty switch like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L7SHLLD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7gvTCb41EDHWW Or you use a Leviton light switch

Brewer's Edge Mash and Boil and the Robobrew both jump to mind as easy solutions. After that you're in the $1k+ range at which point you can either go with nicer components in a pre-built system or you could piece together your own and get a bigger volume or nicer components or some combination...

I'm with island lizard on this one, I would put a bolt though the breaker arms, wire up the spa panel, disconnect anything that's wired at 110v, and brew on.

1. Sounds fine to me, I'd include a fuse too for the safety of your controller. 2. If there is a place to ground it that wouldn't hurt, you can use thin gauge wire for the ground.

You can check the label on the 12v power brick, most are actually 110/220v capable so you might not need to change that at all. The third prong should be ground if both the others were hot. Regarding tying the breakers together, I believe there is an internal design limitation and that manually...

You can run a GFCI off of that outlet and power a 20A (total) 220v control system. Just keep in mind that you won't have any 110v available in the controller. If the element is 3500w and everything in the controller is wired as 220v then you're probably going to be fine. If you didn't want the...

As long as you don't tighten them super tight they won't stick together, even without the tape. I'd say yes for sure on the pump shroud, I lost a chugger pump motor to gradual drops and drips until eventually it wouldn't turn any more.

Most AC-DC converters can handle 100-240v so it won't matter there. If you need 120v for a pump or something then you would either need a neutral line or you would need a second power input into your control box. Nothing says you can't have two power input cords, one for the main 30a 240, and...

Since those ports are welded you don't actually need the tape on the inside to keep it from leaking. My advice would be to leave it off entirely and take the fittings off to rinse everything out between batches. Just thread them in enough to stay put, don't over tighten. I skipped taking the...

Everyone had to learn somewhere, it gets easier as you go. A picture of the back of the switch might help.

Oh, and that light will tell you if your whole control box has power, not just the element. It's not going to tell you anything about the SSR status. You may mean another LED that you don't have shown in the diagram though. Wire nuts work just fine and are safe, feel free to use those if you...

There is almost no reason to skip a hard disconnect at the element. At a minimum it gives you peace of mind when you're plugging and unplugging stuff. "I don't really need one since I can just grab the cord and unplug it or flip open the spa panel" is bad logic, design this so it will be clear...

Protein like that will build up and can be a pain to remove. I like Alkaline Brewery Wash. I'll usually drain and rinse after the brew day, then mix up enough solution to cover the element, heat to 110f, and then let it sit overnight. At that point it will wipe clean. I've read a few posts...

I'll be the one to jump in and say that the enclosure looks perfectly safe and easy to maintain in it's current configuration. We wouldn't have to build a show piece, and we aren't building so that 15 other technicians can work behind us. Safe, functional, and you're fine.

10 gauge should drop less than 2% over that distance, I think that should be fine and it is the size I would select if I were doing it. Some EEs out here might be able to provide more professional advice.

This is generally true, but I can say from experience that with a 5500w element if you move the cycle time up you can see the boil starting and stopping for sure. A gentle boil is almost no boil so it will easily stop bubbling when you kill power.