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I have an overhead pulley to lift the basket so I just tie that off. Regarding the dead space below the basket, you do want to minimize that. I'm not convinced on the 'not enough of the wort is touching the grain' but it is very true that you might not have enough water to cover the grain if...

I went with 400 micron and it works well. I didn't use the U-support, just a handle.

Silver solder would work. There might also be a screw you could ground somewhere else, or you could check and see if the door is actually already grounded via the hinge.

Looks like you've got a winner going!

You can solder the stripped end to make it solid, then the screw should bite better. You could also crimp a connector of some sort onto the end and screw to that (a butt crimp might work nicely). That contactor is probably designed to take 4 or 6 gauge wire which would fill the opening much...

Thermal paste would be a great start. As far as a better unit there are three approaches. For $20 you could probably find an import 100amp SSR. The internals on that are probably only actually rated for 25 amps but fortunately that's basically what you need. For the same $20 you could take a...

The SSR makes heat proportional to the power going through it. When you're getting the temp up on the strike water it's chugging away at 100%, heavy power on the SSR and lots of heat so it can stick. When it's maintaining temperature it's only running at a few percent, less heat. If you turn it...

Doug is right on needing details, but I had the same symptom in my build. The SSR was overheating which causes it to"stick" on. A better heat sink or better thermal paste will help get the heat out faster. A better SSR will generate less heat to begin with. You can do either or both.

How much power are you using in your mini hlt?

You will want to get a few quotes, the price on this type of project can vary drastically from one electrician to the next based simply on how busy they are. The first thing you should do is read the panel. It will tell you the maximum amperage per stab (side or bus bar). If you're near that...

I could have included a reminder that in-line fuses are super cheap and can save your expensive components. DIGITEN 5x20mm AGC Fuse Holder Inline Screw Type with 16 AWG wire + 5x20mm Fast-blow Glass Fuses Quick Blow Car Glass Tube Fuses Assorted Kit Amp...

Looks good from here

Also, congrats!!! Glad it worked out

I leave my controller on 24/7. Not going to hurt anything if the wiring is safe, but it's not protected from a power surge.

It is helpful to be able to power on the pid, pump, and other components while safely having the element isolated. I'm all for a smaller control box, but the two-pole element disconnect is probably the one place in the whole box that I wouldn't skip. You could drop the incoming power relay in...

There's a 12v switch not tied to the PID, I'm guessing as an element disconnect? Best practice is to use a 2-pole switch so that there are no hot lines leaving the enclosure when you have the switch turned off. The way you have it drawn that switch would make the element stop getting hot, but...

Yup, exactly. Hot on each leg. You can probably find a spade connector that will side right onto the charger block prongs

Have you called Auber direct? Their customer service has been great to me!

Attaching the pigtail to the ground bar on the GFCI is not the recommended configuration. If you don't bring that into the controller as a neutral I'm not sure that it's a problem from a safety standpoint, but I don't believe it's code compliant.

Sounds awesome! My experience is that the cheaper the SSR the hotter it will get. Use thermal paste when you put it on the heat sink and allow adequate air circulation. At the end of the day some SSRs are built with under powered components so they'll forever try to over heat and stick in the...