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The enclosure seems to be built to allow additional units to connect side by side, that and you could probably configure the software to pause while you manually disconnect vessel 1 and connect vessel 2

I'm not sure if the pricing varies by output option (edit - it looks like the system ships ready for all three common outputs 120v20a / 240v30a / Gas), but the page lists $375 for a pretty sexy 240v 30a controller. https://www.blichmannengineering.com/brewcommander.html Clean attractive builds...

This is true for herms for sure. The exception would be if you're directly heating the wort like you would in a RIMS, Direct Fire Mash, or BIAB system. In those cases you'd want the wort temp probe to be fairly close to the element so that you don't over heat due to temperature lag from slow...

Most of brewing is cleaning, making the probe easy to remove makes cleaning easier. I had mine in a tee and it sucked to get it out to clean. Now it's mounted in the kettle wall using a silicone gasket instead of Teflon tape and I'm much happier.

You're very close to right... The only piece missing is that SSRs leak a little bit. If you connect the element the indicator light thing will fix itself and the element will be fine since it isn't enough juice to heat it up. I can't remember 100% if that fixes seeing voltage on a meter, but I...

Close to the bottom is a good pick, touching the bottom isn't great for cleaning but it technically wouldn't hurt anything.

As a side note. An E-Stop button with 2 NC blocks is strangely expensive. It seems to be cheaper to buy two of the Uxcel buttons and scavenge one of the switch blocks.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/C7XSvRyDQks8ZZvN7 5 inches of inside depth feels pretty good, but you do still have to make sure the PID doesn't hit the contactor. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UPANU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fQY9Cb8T21JXX

Some thoughts: Element: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element1650_tc.htm If you're not going to go above a 5 gallon boil I'd stick with a 1650 watt element on 120v. Easier to deal with the power requirements. There are many places like eBay and AliExpress that sell this type of...

It's super easy to make a cable adapter that will take a 4-pin 240 wall plug and give you 120v at the element. This would cut the power back to 1650w without changing anything in the panel. You could switch back and forth during the brew day. Edit: probably easy, would need to know what...

Yup, you're overthinking it. Edit for bad information. The spa panel protects downstream. Put it as far upstream as feasible.

That seems like the ideal approach to me. If you are experiencing an overshoot with this setup then the fix is an easy adjustment in the controller. OSCR will remove your overshoot and is pretty close to 1-1 in my experience. 5F overshoot = set oSCr to positive 5 and you should be golden

I went from inline to kettle mounted because I found times where I wanted to measure temp without pumping. Similarly, if you have a pump failure during the brew day you're not dead in the water. If you're applying heat, from a control standpoint you want the temp probe to be close to the heat...

I've always thought that Stout makes a nice product: https://conical-fermenter.com/BK15TW-TI-DAM-84-15-Gallon-Brew-Kettle-with-Thermowell-Tangential-Inlet-Trub-Dam.html

Yup, I think most people either ignore the 2L and figure it will still taste like beer, or they'll use a conversion calculator for the hot volume. It's pretty easy to do, you could do two separate scales for hot and cold.

It could be an air gap issue if you put a thermometer in the water and it reads different than your temp probe. As a quick test you could take the probe out of the Thermowell and put it directly in the water. If that fixes it you've found your problem. The other thing that could cause small...

I've got the same setup, yup. I think there's a link to my build thread in my signature. I'd say your calculations look good. I usually boil off a gallon an hour. The other thing to note is that biab ends up with a bunch of trub. I often lose a gallon in a 5 gallon batch. Enjoy the build, I'm...

Sounds like about 1qt/lb mash thickness based on your estimates which should work just fine for making beer.

If you're near Tacoma you can come brew a batch on my system and see how you feel about the size.

The element won't be a problem, but the 62q kettle won't work on 3 gallons biab using a basket and element. The bottom of the basket will hit around the 2 gallon mark which means you won't have enough grain under water for a typical batch. 4 is about the smallest I think I could do, 6 feels...