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If you are not crushing your own grain you're probably losing a good bit of efficiency. BIAB benefits greatly from a fine crush. You really need your own grain mill. Keep tuning your process.. You should be able to get into the high seventies pretty easy.

I thought mine was ugly. If the OP's is a two on a scale from one to ten, mine's a solid seven.

Genius. Pure genius.

I've done a cereal mash with corn meal a couple of times. It's great for flavor but it's a lot of work. If I can get close to the flavor with grits I'll be using grits.

Amen brother! I do this quite a bit. More as I get older. I had to take a picture of a micrometer at work to read it. Sad.

Most all grits are treated with lye. Lime (calcium oxide) can be used too but isn't as fast or effective. The vast majority of lye ends up rinsed out of the grits in processing. Your old-fashioed, traditional, soft-pretzel is par-boiled in water with lye before baking. Drink enough alcohol and...

I've found degassing is the only way I can get true still mead or wine. They sell degassing tools. You can bend a coat hanger, stick it is a driil, then put the other end in your mead and spin it. Go slow at first or you'll have a volcano. I have a small automotive hand-operated vacuum pump...

Did you de-gas before bottling? Always some residual CO2 without doing so.

I've got a thirty year old INART steel wing capper that came with my original homebrewing setup. Don't think I've ever broken a bottle with it. I've no doubt done thousands of bottles with it. I recently bought some New Belgium beer. I really like their bottles and was going to reuse them. I...

Not boiling makes for a really short brew day. :rock: Boiling probably drives off some of the flavor and aroma components.

Double post.

Fermentis says 53.6F to 59F for this yeast. They recommend rehydrating in water at 59-77F. https://fermentis.com/en/product/saflager-s-23/

Glad to hear it. Let us know what the end result is like. I remember in my early days of brewing I was in the kitchen cooking up a batch when I looked in the eating area and realized I already had seven cases of beer stacked up. Had to have some friends over, a few times, to make room to make...

Welcome back. I stated brewing in 1989. For the most part I'm doing things now much like I did then except... I BIAB. I've got better things to do with my time than lauter. No more five gallon batches. Three suits my needs and lets me brew more often. More yeast selection makes it more...

While it would be carbonated there is a lot to be said for letting the beer "condition" in the bottle for three weeks, or more. Part of this is getting the CO2 fully absorbed into the beer.

I made a Coopers Real Ale canned kit last year and was very pleased with the result. Having homebrewed thirty years I felt it wasn't fair to knock them until you tried one. It exceeded my expectations. I've read good things about Coopers Australian Ale kit. If you do PROPER sanitation and temp...

I drink them as penance to the gods of brewing for my lack of attention and care in my process. A big batch for me is 14 liter so drinking it isn't too horrible a job. Also, if you do it in a session, they tend to taste better as you go through them. Darker beers in particular really improve...

Learn about de-gassing too.

Biggest improvement I made in mead is giving it enough time in the bottle, like six months minimum. Second improvement was degassing before bottling. Over the years I'd had a lot of mead, wine, and cider that just wouldn't clear. Upon advice from this forum I bought a small vacuum pump. Once...

I love bottling. Haven't had a gas leak in thirty years. Never had a beer fail to dispense either.