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I never had that problem. I keep the lid on the container side of the bottle tight and then loosen the lid on the chamber side so air can get out - give a little squeeze and the StarSan goes shooting up the little tube to fill the chamber even when the bottle is nearly empty.

So, here's a crazy idea for those that are thinking that CO2 purity may be causing their kegged beers to stale. What if you loaded a canister with oxygen scavenging packets (the food safe kind used for long term storage) and then flowed the CO2 through the canister on its way to the keg? Here's...

inkman15, You might try bottling from a keg with a bottling gun. Go ahead and keg and force carb your IPAs. Then use a bottling gun to fill bottles. The bottling gun lets you flush the bottles with CO2 before you start filling with beer. It doesn't eliminate O2 exposure, but it does reduce it...

Looks pretty solid to me - this is my 15 gallon tri-clad kettle.

Well, given the pH ranges that he mentions in his talk, I'd say those are at mash temps. But since he didn't say mash temps, I can't be certain. Brew the same beer at two different pH and let us know what you think.

ToddStark, Check out the tri-clad Concord kettles. I'd guess that the heavier bottom would stay more flat than thin metal would on a glass stove top. Plus you're likely to end up with less scorch marks since the heat is more evenly dispersed. Or switch to a gas burner. Good luck! Pliny

TexasWine, I've been looking forward to an unbiased review of the LODO process - thanks for that. I pretty much gave up on the germanbrewing thread. I really disliked the folks saying that if you didn't follow their outline exactly, then you were brewing beer that was garbage and should be...

Can you fill a different container with the same water - perhaps a glass jar? Let it sit in the jar for the same amount of time and see what your meter reads in the end. Maybe do two jars - one sealed and one not. If the kettle measurement still drifts up and the jars don't, then you know it's...

Anybody? Does grain contribute any sulfate or do I get sulfate only from water or salt additions? What about chloride? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Mike, The Blichmann Burner showed up today - box was pretty banged up, but your wrapping held up well. And thanks for the free rolls of paper towel. They served their purpose! I assembled it and fired it up. That burner is HEAVY DUTY. I think UPS could have kicked it from Pennsylvania to...

Also interested in a burner with extensions - shipping to 90277. Let me know the price with shipping, and I'll let you know if I'm in.

This isn't too bad: http://www.homebrewing.org/5-Gallon-Low-Profile-Kegs-Used-2-Kegs_p_6646.html

Arbe0, Is the water that you are using chlorinated or chloraminated (or whatever it is called when chloramines are used to treat water)? If so, that'll lead to a band-aid or plastic-like flavor to your finished beer. So, it may not be an infection you're after - it may be chemicals in your...

I agree with the Concord 15 gallon. I went with the tri-clad bottom to minimize scorching. Not sure it's needed, but I went with the upgrade.

PM sent for Cannonball and dual secondary regulator. What brand is that regulator?

Interested in the Cornelius regulator - shipping to 90277. Thanks! I'll send a PM as well.

Check this out: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=580532 ...using sulphites to reduce oxygen's effects on beer.

Except in Death Valley! Wait, maybe that's why it's called Death Valley.

If you end up parting this out, I am interested in the burner with legs. Unfortunately, I'm in Cali. Shipping to 90277. I'm am interested, if you don't sell local. Let me know. Pliny

pp, No - gases don't work that way. They don't settle. Once you open the fermenter, oxygen (and other gases) will start to diffuse into the CO2 in the fermenter. You don't immediately lose ALL your CO2, but you do quickly introduce other gases. If the CO2 blanket was real, all the people...