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I didn't buy the kegs new and the poppets I took out were what came in them when I bought them. All my kegs have Hansen MFG posts. I was under the impression it was all pretty standard stuff. I may try another poppet set first and see if that does better. If not, guess I'll be replacing the...

I have not, but it did cross my mind that the posts could be an issue. Just seems odd that all my posts would be bad when the old OEM poppets fit fine.

I got some new "universal" poppets for my kegs. These: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071L2GYRJ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 My kegs are pin lock, two Firestone/Spartanburg and one Cornelius. On ALL my kegs, these new poppets protrude immensely. The o-rings are on the verge of being...

Finally got around to replacing my poppets and all o-rings on my pin-lock kegs. I got a set of universal poppets from Ferroday?? It says the fit pin and ball lock kegs. Two problems... first, some, but not all, of the poppet seals seem to protrude far more than my originals. Second, a couple...

Patriots 55, but go Eagles!

I have these on my rig and in my experience they will only control direction, not flow rate. But then I’ve never tried that way. They appear to shutoff flow except when aligned and then it is full open. Standard ball/shutoff valves are already a little coarse in their flow control and your idea...

The 12 psi seems to be working relatively well. I haven’t yet replaced my poppets and rubber, at this point just a matter of principal, because I’ve been dealing with work and frozen pipes. But I think perhaps my system may just not be as I calculated, combined with my last two beers lacking in...

Since you aren’t kegging, you must be bottle conditioning. When you cold crash, transfer quickly afterwards to bottle. When the yeast consume your priming sugar, they’ll scavenge much of whatever o2 you take on. You’ll need to account for your beer being cold when you calculate your priming sugar.

Something like this...

I should have known enough to check it before I walked out. But I’ve bought from this guy many, many times before and never had this issue. I think he just forgot to mill it after I asked him to. Both our bad. But I sure won’t forget to check again! Oh and if I buy a mill then I’ll just have to...

The pour rates appear to be the same. The lines are run to coil on top of the keg with just a tiny bit of slack for when I open the lid. (Taps in the collar are mounted to the lid, not the freezer itself) So there should be no issues with lines near cold/warm spots. It was actually two...

Sadly it appears it’s not temporary. I saw two of the Bernoulli’s guys a few weeks ago. Two of the four partners didn’t hang around after they closed. There is no new place in the works. They are done. There is still that place down by Overton Square but the hours are erratic and I’ve not...

I was pumped to try my first BIAB today and everything went well except this. Not really sure what happened, but I’d say my LHBS blew it with the crush this time. I’ve always been a little unsure of the guy, but he’s the only one in town. I’ve always had him crush my grain, and never had it...

EDIT* So after I turned the regulator up to 12 psi and gave it about 24 hours, the beers pour much better. They seem carbed and have some head to the pour. I’m still fairly convinced my system is “balanced” but I’m concerned that 12 hours with the extra 3 psi made all the difference? Also, a...

Lol, sorry. All three are dark beers, all between 6.5 and 7.5% ABV, with FGs between 1.015 and 1.022. The Cascadian/Black IPA is the one that has a terrific foam and doesn’t seem flat once it’s poured. The others are an Old Chub clone and a bourbon oaked dubbel. The bourbon dubbel has been on...

It’s a 5# tank and I haven’t lost any gas in months, let alone weeks. So yeah, that’s good! All the kegs are on a 4 way manifold attached to a single regulator. They are all original pin-lock kegs, but not exactly sure what make.

I’m struggling with my new keg setup. I have a keezer that I serve from and most of my beer is coming out flat. I force carb, using the “set and forget” method. I’m using 10 psi at 40F and letting my beers carb at least two weeks before. I have referenced the literature for balanced systems and...

Switch which jars your have the Star San in. The empty jar should be sealed, while the jar with Star San in it can be vented. That way the Star San would have to jump 2 jars to make it to the fermenter. Or just don’t have the tube in jar 1 sitting all the way down in the Star San.

Don’t buy it, build it! I have two jars with Star San connected to an empty jar. All connections use a 1/2 barbed elbow from HD in the irrigation section. Maybe a buck a piece. The extra tube that is capped can attach another fermenter to it. Any massive blowoff is caught in the empty jar...

Wow I wonder if Brewers Friend assumes for all grain you drain your MT and then close the valve. No real draining or certainly squeezing of the grain inside your MT. I’ve done that only to realize 30 minutes later there’s a bunch of wort sitting in my cooler! Thanks for the info everyone!