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Thanks guys for the input. It could be chlorine as I used bleach/vinegar (we can't get Star San in South Africa). Maybe used too much because no matter how I rinsed the smell would not go away. Now discovered Perasan which apparently is a substitute and is no-rinse. Bleach is officially...

This is the last of 4 batches in a Coopers kit before trying AG (an APA fermenting now). It is a Mexican Cerveza and this is the most care I've taken so far; sanitised everything, sterilized bottles in oven, etc. (maybe that's a clue because it tastes like oven-cleaner chemical!). This is not...

Is there any reason not to use quick connectors to add strike water via the mash tun outlet and manifold? After the mash you could close the valve(!) and move the hose to the boil kettle. I'm a noob so feel free to L.O.L.

Thank you all, that puts my mind at rest. In a couple days it will be 3 weeks of fermenting so I will check again. Never thought of waiting for the sample to warm up/de-gas.

Neat! Where have you hidden the pumps, and what type did you use? I am about to do a 12 gal setup.

I am nearing 3rd week in the fermenter, controlled to 56 deg F. It is a Coopers Pilsener and is looking promising, but I am getting a different reading in the jar compared to directly in the fermenter. This is due to bubbles forming when I use the jar, even after a gentle spin. The beer already...

Right, I'm convinced. Using Newton seemed so neat, but having everything on one level just feels right. So, off to the pump shop........ Great advice Art.

Thank you for that. I haven't brewed all grain so am unfamiliar with the process. I have read that most brews require water at 150~170 but one Hefe recipe calls for addition of 6qts boiling water to raise temp to 100F or so (We work in C so this is just a guess). Definitely need more research...

Thanks mikescooling, that is exactly the question. I couldn't see any bracing in pictures, but now it seems obvious. I am trying to get a reject 50 liter keg from SA Breweries and as you know they are tall and narrow. I will make up some kind of bracing. Cheers.

Hi, this topic must have come up but I can't find it. About to build a 3-tier stand and am concerned about the safety aspect of boiling 12gal of water 6 feet up. I hate it when a boiling pot tips and warms the back of my neck. How do I secure the vessel? It will be either a 50liter (12gal?) pot...

Thanks everyone for the great input. I have a circular saw blade with .023" (half mm) kerf from when I built electric guitars. That should be good for cutting slots in the copper pipe. That seems like the right way to go. Also, will definitely buy the book. I have looked at the digital version...

That's the clearest explanation I've seen. Can't wait to get started. 1 Will start with a ss braided filter for ease, but will probably upgrade to copper manifold soon. 4 Will make a copper coil immersion chiller. Thanks again govner1, you have been a great help.

Thank you govner1. 1. Thusfar only Coopers diy 23 liter (around 25 qt) batches. Just checked, proposed tun is a Coleman 48qt chest cooler. Here in South Africa we use Liters, so it is 45L. I would like to optimize this. Supposedly you can do any size batch if you do the math? 2. My question was...

Sorry, my heading is misleading. Pot is to feed the Coleman. Hi, I'm about to try all grain brewing after a couple successful batches of Lager using a Coopers DIY kit. The mash tun is a +/- 45qt Coleman cooler. I can buy a 45~50 liter aluminum pot, but just realized this could be a handful...