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https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-_hYAPEnu7Bdmc3dUpvajdiVVk/edit?usp=sharing try this one.

Thanks for the post! This would save me about $160. Do they have a standard 24Vdc or 120Vac coil model? I would hate to add a 12Vdc power supply to my system.

Factorymation.com Eldon Nema 4/12/13 16"x24"x8" MAS0604021PER5 - $117 Sub-Panel AMP04060WH - $28 That is the cheapest you will find for the quality. And nema rated. It's what I chose for my proect

MicroMotions for a home brewery? I just got a half chub. What PLC/HMI are you using?

email me @ kvash5 @ gmail . com

I have completed the electrical prints. Feel free to review and suggest changes, but I believe they are accurate. I have denoted panel wiring as solid (MTW type) and field (in conduit or across panels) wiring as dashed (THHN Type)...

I just got AutoCAD E for my PC. Should have some legit prints up soon. :) The project will likely be delayed indefinitely after that, I am in turbo debt-payoff mode. But I will leave enough info so anyone can build their own. :rockin:

Have you checked out the PJ Diagrams thread? He does a lot of simple wiring diagrams on a frequent basis, they are collected in that thread :).

Seems to be a common issue. I didn't check the file integrity. Let me work on it a bit tonight!

PM me your email address and I will just send you a direct copy.

Yes, I chose to go with the discrete PID control due to cost concerns (3x Aubers are cheaper than an RTD card for the ML1200). My controller does support PID loops :). As far as maxkling, Gap control CAN be quite accurate for slow processes. I am able to control 2000gallon tanks to +-3F with a...

Link? This would save me about $200. My program is HERE. The logic is in place for full control of valves and any kal based design. There is also a simple alarm handler, and two-state device routine. I am using AdvancedHMI talking over the Ethernet Driver to a NET-ENI (Ethernet to DF1) to the...

Sounds like you are SOL.

Do you have the model number? That would be the definite answer. Since your controller shows 1231 (type K 0C-1300C), and you mentioned 2 wires, it is probably expecting a thermocouple. Typing your model number into google gave me THIS

Oh, I misunderstood. I am sure the 93's will sell quick on here!

I am dumb again, this is exactly what an SCR does. Some VFDs control based on this method too. Would work were it in the realm of a reasonable frequency, which it ain't.

Is that char on your ground wire? You should cut that connection shorter and have the ring terminal facing away from the element power connectors. You would be surprised how well electricity can tunnel the air gap without a spark if the conditions are right.

Can't you just wire the buzzer in parallel with whatever is on the first output? Then install the switch inline on the buzzer.

Yay! PLC control!!

What is the voltage drop/ohm reading across the SSR output terminals? Which leg of the element are you switching? Can you post a pic of the wiring on the ssr?