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Did you try raising the temp to 70 and see if any activity happens?

Time frame is simple. Assuming you took an OG reading. Once visible signs of fermentation have stopped, take. FG reading. When three consecutive readings are the same, transfer to secondary. From there depends on what type of beer you are brewing. This is when the beer begins to clarify. When...

If you want folks to respond, you need to supply more details. Was this a kit? What was the yeast? Brewing procedures? Just seeing the amount of base malts you added for 5 gallons, I can see why the OG was 1.022.

How long was the beer sitting on the 25 psi? The 5 ft line isn't a problem as long as the pressure is set right. I'd suggest shutting off the gas, off gassing the keg, turning the gas pressure to about 8 psi and let it equilibrate for a few days. Then try a pour. Make adjustments as necessary...

See it and hopefully hear it. If you are unsure, simply leave it be for two weeks and then switch over to air lock.

You can leave your blowoff tube on until you transfer to secondary (if doing so) or you can replace with an airlock when bubbling has subsided greatly. It's your call. As for blowoff tube on secondary, not necessary unless you plan on adding fruit or other sugars that yeast love to feast on.

I as well. I usually fill with PBW as soon as the keg kicks and let soak over night. It keeps gunk from possibly drying on any of the keg parts.

I appreciate all responses. Possibly not have contractors in my house is step #1, especially when they are in the basement farting around with the electrical panel. I fear they were trying some Frankenstein experiments with my beer. I do know that in a couple weeks I am brewing a chai milk...

Haha. That would be awesome.

So my wife walks into the basement. Sounds like the opening to a bad joke. The other day I brewed NB Imperial Stout extract kit. Scottish Ale yeast, made a 1.7L starter per BeerSmith. Aerated the crap out of it during mixing. Hooked up a blowoff tube, normal 1/4" ID. Placed in basement. Temps...

The best place to go for good recipes is any of the homebrew stores near you or on line that sell kits. Instructions are usually included. My only advice on the kits is to read the instructions three or four times. Familiarize yourself before beginning.

I think northern brewer is having a two-fer special that includes $7.99 flat shipping.

Another thought, and I may be off, so correct me if I am wrong: What has been your attenuation for these beers? With higher OGs, maybe the boil time is too short? It's a lot of solids that need to be dissolved. Thoughts from the gurus?

If you ever want to do that again, or anything where you heat a liquid in the microwave, be sure to add something like a straw or wooden stirrer to make sure that your liquid does not explode again.

Remember that this 1.000 reading is also based on a temperature of 60 deg F.

I have to disagree in a sense. One reason for pre-carb tasting is to get a general idea of the flavor profile. Can you taste hops and bitterness in an IPA, chocolate notes on a milk chocolate stout, fruit flavors in a fruited wheat, etc. it definitely won't be what the final beer will taste...

This is simply my humble opinion. Go to northernbrewer.com and find the cream ale recipe. Under additional information, you can view the steps to the recipe. The beer is great, the recipe is simple. Read it a few times and make sure you have all the equipment before starting. Come back and ask...

Without any further information, I would venture on two possibilities: One is over dilution Two is low attenuation

Boiling grains (actually anything over 170 or so) will release tannins (poly phenols) which add off flavors and unwanted bitterness.

Short answer - no, unless the krausen has blocked the airlock.