Search results

I'd be interested in some kind of get together. Though I've not done an AG brew yet.

I used to use LME, and I asked here about the differences between LME and DME. You all said "DME, use DME!" so I gave it a shot. Just snuck a taste of the APA I made (calling it Mighty Mo' APA) and MAN, no twang, light colored, all the stuff I was looking for. Thanks all. From now on...

Yooper Chick, I think you could be considered an honorary cheesehead. I mean...you like beer!

Heya alchemy. I'm also in Madison. Welcome to the site and stuff.

I'm with YooperChick on this one. I've only used bleach (yeck) and one-step, and I dry my stuff (especially at bottling) for about 2 minutes before I go ahead and use it. I do however make absolutely sure that all the granules are dissolved before I go ahead and call it "ready to use". I've...

I just kind of fell out of doing it when I graduated from college. Then I got married and my wife had been encouraging me to start again (she was interested in it or wanted me out of the way, or something). So I started again.

I wouldn't drink those. I've heard stories about people that drink beer that's several years old and exposed to crazy temperature changes.

Sediment on the bottom of the bottles is normal. Those are the yeast that carbonated your bottled beer. Short of filtering, you aren't going to get rid of all the yeast.

And dang, you guys are fast on the posts!

errr. Ok. If nothing else has exploded...very very carefully take the bottles out and refridgerate them. Cold liquid solubilizes CO2 better than warm, and, assuming your yeast may still be active, the low temperature will cause them to become dormant. Once the beer is cold (like...

I went all DME for my 3rd batch. I made an APA and got convinced to try all DME. 6 lbs of it and 30 minutes of boiling later I had a nice, light orange colored wort in my fermenter (the darkness of it comes mainly from the 1 lb of steeped crystal 40L, but it's light, which is what I wanted)...

I figured that the carmelization would be the cause of the darker color. Doing the late addition would probably alleviate that (a shorter boil of the extract at the very least). Would upping the boil volume lead to more easily created lighter colors?

Thanks Yooper Chick, I was just curious, and yeah, the 3.3 lb cans are no good.

So, I noticed a lot of folks on here advocating the use of DME instead of LME and I was just kind of curious as to why. I've noticed that I can't seem to get a truly light color out of LME, and I know I read somewhere that there can be a "twangy" taste with LME, but are there other reasons?

There's pale DME out there. I just used 6 lbs of it yesterday.

So I actually brewed this up last night (note to self: do not start brewing at 9 pm). I may have pitched the yeast a bit warm, but it should wake up today or tomorrow (because I pitched too little yeast and a bit warm). Should be interesting. This will definitely be a beer that will need...

Hey, thanks! This is my first attempt at coming up with some kind of recipe on my own, and I have a friend from California coming to visit that claims he likes Pale Ales. I figured I'd make one. Unfortunately I'm not quite ready for AG yet, but I can kinda convert that Nierra Sevada...

So maybe Perle and Cascade then, instead of Galena, etc...? Are there any other additions I should make, or changes. Here's the new recipe, taking all your suggestions. 6 lbs Light DME 1 lb Crystal 20L steeped 30 minutes 2 Oz Perle hops, bittering 1 Oz Cascade hops, aroma, 15 minutes...

Ahh, you may be right. Not sure though.

6 lbs Light LME 2 lbs Light DME 1 lb Crystal 10L steeped for 10 minutes 2 Oz Galena Hops at start of boil 1 Oz Northern Brewer Hops 15 minutes into boil 1 Oz Fuggle Hops with 2 minutes left in boil Also...What kind of yeast would be best to use (assume I have access at LHBS for most...