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This recipe, I did about 1 tbls at the last 5 min of the boil, .5 tbls in secondary, and when I racked into bottling bucket I found the spices still lacking so I added another tbls in my priming solution. Sounds like a lot, but the spices are extremely subtle in all but the last few bottles...

Hey guys, I'm finally drinking a pumpkin wheat ale I brewed and i noticed the last few bottles I had bottled (I know this cuz they were in different bottles) had a lot more pumkin spices than the rest of my batch. I also noticed that when creating my priming sugar (I added an extra amount...

Sweet, batch sparging is the way I was planning on going anyways. Btw, I just discovered that clicking on the "Brewhouse Efficiency" button in your recipe is where BeerSmith calculates your efficiency based on your experience. Thanks again everyone for your advice and responses. I am now...

He has a good point. Octoberfests from what I remember reading are usually brewed several months ahead of time and left to bottle condition for like 6 months.

Great advice and suggestions. Thanks! One final thing, what do you mean by the "crush"? Like, how much the grains are crushed prior to mashing? *edit* Nevermind, question answered, hah.

Wait, maybe I should just adjust the efficiency on my recipe in Beersmith until it matches my real-world output. That sounds about right.

Ok, thanks. What would be the best way to find out my efficiency with my equipment? Set a requipe into beersmith at 100% and see what the difference is between what Beersmith says my OG should be and what my OG is? If there is a calculator in Beersmith, I haven't found it yet. BTW, I'm...

I have just moved up to all-grain, and am awaiting the rest of my equipment before I dive right in. I have read many posts where people talk about brewing their beer to specific efficiencies, ex. 75%, 68%, etc. What determines what you all are brewing and shoting for as far as efficiency goes...

I wouldn't recomend the "good shake" part, unless you want to aerate all your beer... but, yes, add sugar to the bottles, recap, turn them upside down a few times, maybe give them a few swirls. Just try not to aerate them too much. Good luck!

Growlers can't handle carbing pressures? Good to know.

You should be ok adding your priming liquid into your primary and gently stiring. I imagine you would disturb the trub a bit though.. Maybe just prime each seperate bottle instead of priming the bucket. You can def bottle in the growlers with extract in each one. My concern would be...

I think it's time for me to step it up and get a propane burner for some all grain, outdoor brewing. The messes in the kitchen aren't appreciated either, lol.

Oh man, I'll take on the odds! I'm in!!

Cool! Yeah, I've had pretty good success maintaining mash temperatures with a gas stove set on low, sometimes slightly higher. It wasn't until two batches were done that I noticed people weren't using heat after it had reached desired temperatures, and was curious if I was doing it all wrong...

Hey, just noticed we are neighbors! Care to do a beer swap some time?

Upon further investigation, it seems there are people bottling regular longnecks at and around 4 volumes of CO2 for wheat beers. Anyone with experience with this? I could only find one short thread about it. Btw, I'm using used regular brown bottles. Sierra Nevada, Blue Moon, Sam Adams, etc.

Thanks for the replies. If I do turn the heat off for a mash of around 153 F, will a towl scorch or burn wrapped around the pot at that temperature?

I see most people turn off the heat and wrap their pot/kettle with a towel. What is the adverse effect of leaving the heat on low to maintain mash temp? Don't you have to worry about burning/scorching your towel when wrapping your hot kettle?

Thanks, I'll make sure to never make a hard cider in my house, :s

Haha, thanks guys. I'll just go with a smaller amount then. Interesting that these calculators ask for so much more!