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+5 Kolsch 31231

To help answer some of your questions: 1) if you take gravity readings a day apart and get the same reading, fermentation is done. At this time it is "OK" to move the carboy and bottle/keg. Whether you should is all dependent on taste. See #2 2) I would have at least tasted it first. if it...

I wouldn't go by the fermentation instructions. Leave it in there till its done (which is whenever it tastes good after fermentation has stopped). How long after it tastes good is up to you. I try to brew once a month, so I usually bottle after 4 weeks in primary so i can do all my cleaning at...

Then he's making the wrong sauce:D. That recipe does look really good, though.

BBQ sauce should be thin and vinegary.

I left a pumpkin ale brewed last Oct/Nov sitting in the primary till about 2 weeks ago (~4 months). (I had no intention of it, but stuff happens). It tastes great, though it's more of an amber ale now. I really don't believe autolysis is something to worry about.

I've seen 30-50 A Semi fuses for between $7-9 (Allied or Digikey I think. I don't know how much your SSR was, and you would still need to purchase a holder for the fuse. Regardless of whether you choose to use Semi fuses, i would still fuse the SSR from a fire safety aspect.

What is the SSR rated for?

Make sure you fuse all major components. This will help save your wallet, as well as a major safety feature. You will still get the flash/bang, but no more smoke.

you really should fuse the SSR (as well as just about everything else). That way when something like this happens again, you only have to replace an el cheapo fuse. As well as preventing fire or injury. :D

You should definitely fuse both of the heaters between the heater and the contactor. I don't know if you left this off for simplicity, but I would also supply the common hot line (L1 per your drawing, or L2 per Inodoro_Pereyra's suggestion) to the top heater through a terminal block with a...

Come on, its "the hard to find combination GFI and circuit breaker combination" AND its "guaranteed perfect." What could be fishy about that.:D +1 to CanadianNorth.

Is your pump thermally protected? if so, don't worry about fusing it. If it's not thermally protected, it would be best to fuse (or breaker) it. I would normally agree, BUT neither of those outlets are large enough to handle both loads.

what was the grain bill? target OG? measured OG?

there is no set conversion of grains to extract. it depends on your mash efficiency. I think 1lb. LME in 1gal. water = 1.036 SG, and 1lb. DME in 1gal water = 1.042 (not sure though). if you browse for mash conversion you should be able to find an answer pretty easily

Two best books for this: How to Brew, Designing Great Beers.

yeah, i've taken to utilizing later hop additions. 0, 5, and 10 min. my primary has been bubbling hops for days. I'm so excited.

Don't take my post the wrong way. There's no harm in trying it.

The easiest way to answer this is to check out a hop utilization curve: https://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=7238&cat=all&ppuser=14092 It looks like its not that advantageous.

Just my two cents, but it's not like homebrew goes toxic after a month or two. I would probably go for a half batch, though.