Search results

I hope to have it relatively level and put a vinyl drain tube in one corner. The channels are 1/2" deep. That in conjunction with a 450+ CFM exhaust fan would ideally keep the moisture in the channels to a minimum. An occasional spray of bleach-water around the bottom interior hood/channel...

"...can do magic with a bottling wand."

I've have some latex bathroom caulking for sealing those joints but I'm tempted to use more J-Channel and a torch to patch in the corners. Totally impractical but it does mean I get to play with fire and molten plastic. I had the better part of two FRP sheets, so I was able to actually make a...

"....shower with a carboy." https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/i-got-caught-371498/#post4642835 Thanks for the laugh, maddad! Anyway, what would your "Real Homebrewers..." bumper sticker stay?

I know it's poor form to link one of your own posts, but I am asking that the post below be moved into this forum. Anyway, a very easy (and relatively cheap) way to build an exhaust hood for your electric brewing setup: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/5-1-2-foot-diy-hood-approx-75-a-371453/

A couple more pics. Mostly done, but the J-Channel isn't attached permanently yet.

I'll post some pictures later tonight of my finished hood. Costs are approximate: $32 - FRP $ 5 - Lath screws $12 - 2x4's $14 - Plywood half-sheet $12 - Vinyl J-Channel --- $76 Cut two plywood end caps that are half-circles with a 15.25" radius. This dimension allows the 4' end of the FRP...

Sold it yesterday.

I found the original box for this and if anyone is still interested I'll ship it if you're willing to pay actual shipping. I'll come down to $325 to help cover your cost of shipping and if you would rather have the Auberin RTD instead of the original thermometer, I'll ship it instead of the...

Maybe this for recirculating? https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/cheap-pump-fda-approved-12v-100c-337933/

Sorry, I should have elaborated on overall setup. I plan to follow a build like theelectricbrewery.com (HERMs) so I'd most likely have an Auber RTD sensor/thermometer inline off of the 1" port and monitor from there during re-circulation.

I'm having some welding done on my kettles and wanted opinions on removing (or using) a 1/2" threaded port. Well, it's welded at the kettle but has a threaded end. I've already got a 1" threaded center port I intend to use. The 1/2" port doesn't appear to be necessary and would only be one...

I'd stop considering using this and wondering how many thousands of gallons of photo processing chemicals had been pumped through it :mug::

I have some 30 gallon tanks with 1" bottom drains. I'm thinking about getting the reducer in the link below but the inside looks like it was cast by a pre-schooler in their sandbox. Any reason to be concerned with how rough the inside looks...

Here you go:

Edited for reduced price ($325 plus shipping) and element is 4500w rather than 5500w. Brand new except I've used this once in a three tier setup after installing a new 4500w element. The element is mounted 3 inches from the bottom and 90 degrees clockwise from the ball valve. The element is...

4 of the tanks are the same: 19" diameter x 25" height (30 gallons). 3 of them have the Little Giant 4-MD-SC pumps (800 GPH). One pump is missing. These 4 have the 90-degree elbow at perimeter coming in through the bottom. 2 tanks are 20" x 26" (35 gallons). These 2 tanks have some LARGE...

I did find enough information about cleaning them that I think I'll give it a shot. Ironically, I did my first 10 gallon batch (electric keggle BK) last night and lost track of how many boil-overs I had. Couldn't get the PID dialed in to the correct percentage of power in manual mode. A 30...

I have some equipment that was given to me from a foreclosed winery. It appears some of it might be photo processing stuff though. There are 6 30-Gallon "Noritsu Portable Mixers" that each have one center port in the bottom and another port on the bottom (near the outside perimeter) with an...

I don't have anything in place and this weekend should be my first run on the new electric setup, but I'm very interested in some sort of safeguard to prevent dry-firing of an element. Not meaning to hi-jack the thread, but this might be of interest to those reading it: APress book...