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I am thinking of making 6 gallons of a big imperial stout like 10-11% ABV, only problem is that it looks like it is going to have to boil for about 3 hours to get back down to 6 Gallons after the mash. Am I just stuck with an very long boil or is there something I can do to speed things up.

ROFL I see what you did there. :)

Ok so basically i just need to get all the numbers green and make sure the SRM is in range of what I am brewing then I am golden.

After reading the thread and watching bobby's video's (thanks a lot) I just want to clear up one thing.... If all my numbers are in the proper range (all green) then I don't have to worry about the Ph of my mash?

I guess short of emailing or calling the brewers and finding out what water they use and the water profile for beers we won't know for sure, at least we would know what the water is like from the city they are located. At the same time can't we say this for the cities in Palmer's book, just...

Well here is Chicago's numbers and Breweries would include Goose Island, metropolitan, and Half Acre. Those are the 3 I can think off the top of my head, now this is just assuming the brewery doesn't do anything to the water, but at least we can see what base they are using. CaCO3: 102 CL...

I looked a little bit around the forum and the web and all i can really find is the big time international cities that Palmer has listed in his book. I was wondering if anyone had a spreadsheet or documentation of some of the smaller towns water profiles, like New Glarus, WI (New Glarus)...

I think you are right MrSalty, I called the village yesterday and he said they get the water from Chicago and he is going to mail me a copy of the Chicago report and it sounded like it had everything I needed on it. Now I just have to play with the calculators.

Thanks I saw all the tools, just didn't know if I had the right information....off the top of your head do you remember the pricing on that test?

Hello I just moved to a new town and haven't brewed yet and tried to look at the water report, but I don't think I have everything I need on the one listed. Just looking for someone to take a quick peak at it and let me know. Thanks Joe Water Report...

The chips will be soaking 4 weeks on Saturday....I have it in a mason jar and I have opened it a few times and the wine smells like some really intense oak so I will probably end up pitching the whole thing in so any oak flavor the wine took out can still get in the beer...I think it is about a...

I was thinking something simple like pale/wheat/crystal...like 50%/40%/10%

I have some American Oak that has been soaking in a cab for quite some time and I want to toss it into a wild brew, but I am not sure if I should just toss the chips + wine or just the chips....I have added bourbon soaked oak to a stout before and added it all, just not sure about the wine...

I was thinking of doing a sour with this yeast...Since parts of this thread are over a year old how did things turn out and would you change anything?

After reading this thread again (especially Bobby's comment) I am wondering about the potential of doing a Mash hop to get the preservation factor without all the IBU's? You could achieve all the IBU's you want and not add any hops to the boil. What are your thoughts on how well this would...

I kinda thought about not typing "standard" since you really can't have a standard with those styles... So it sounds like if your doing a lambic you need the aged hops, and if your doing a sour you can mix low AA fresh and some aged. Thanks for all the quick responses.

I tried a quick search but came up empty handed. My question is I know lambics need aged hops, but if I am making just a standard sour/wild ale do I need aged hops or can I just use fresh hops?

Slimer I dig the woot shirt...I picked that one up myself too.

So did we come to a conclusion on why it is so far off??

Thanks that post really cleared things up....I did a search before posting, but i must have been using the wrong key words.