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When I tested I still had leads connected, I'm guessing that gave me a false reading. I going to remove from box and test tomorrow. I have this one: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=30

Yes sir, my SSR is cooked. 0 resistance at output. Thank you, Mattd2 for spotting that. I never would have thought of that. This SSR is pretty new. I've checked my wiring and it looks like it's supposed to. Here's some pics of my box, anybody see any reason the SSR cooked.

Thank you, I'm going to give it a try.

Could I do this?

I'm having trouble getting this into my head. I can power off the PID and the pot still boils unless I power off the element switch. The element is still getting power from somewhere without a neutral connected. Is it feeding back thru the ground?

Been running my temp control using PJ diagram. I want to be able to run my element at 1/2 power, so I put a switch to the other line thinking I could turn off switch 2 and have the PID run the element on 120V. (2nd pic) Apparently it doesn't work that way, why not ? Is there simple way to wire...

TSP is strong stuff. Try a 10: 1 It doesn't take much

Don't know if you want pin lock or ball lock. Here's ball lock http://www.midwestsupplies.com/pin-lock-to-ball-lock-conversion-post.html

First I would like to thank Mr. Darkwoods for the inspiration to build this and to the others who posted here who helped me understand how to wire it without burning my (brew house) workshop down. The Queen, er my Wife loves it, that's sayin' something. Thank you guys. This is a Whirlpool...

I use this for My HLT. Work well, no problems. .http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XZAJ3I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 The only issue I have with it , there is no barb on outlet side ,makes it tricky to get a good fit to the outlet tubing. Epoxied a piece of pvc over it. Look for power...

If you want to add a pressure gauge to your propane tank , check your local Wally World, they have their summer stuff on sale . I got a gauge for under $7.00. Might find it at some of the other big boxes as well.

U.S. made copper tubing. Would this use lead free solder? http://www.ebay.com/itm/12x12-Water-to-Air-Heat-Exchanger-For-Outdoor-Wood-Furnace-2-Season-Warranty-/230913601638?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c385f066 I've also been looking at this, I think it might work in a bucket of ice water...

Has anybody tried something like this for a wort chiller? It's 14 inches long, not sure of diameter, guessing 1 1/4 in. Outlets are 3/8 & 5/8

Has anybody tried this for a hose end filter? All stainless. 2 1/5 x 5 inches http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027D5HOM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Has anybody tried this with cider? https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/yeast-immobilization-magic-beans-fermentation-404698/ Ordered a kit from amazon, be in Wed. Looks like fun. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008657GS0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

ok ,so my guess would be your terminal strips need to be jumped across the hot terminal side. these terminals are separate, you need to feed each one power. by that I mean each term. needs its own power source. here's what i'm talkin' about. the jumper wires on each terminal.

thanx knub, i'll relocate my ball valve to output side. the pump runs fine and doesn't trip breaker, so I know the problem is not there. the breaker doesn't trip until the heat stick has been on for a couple of minutes . Has anyone used a heat stick? I have Watlow heat cartidge mounted in a...

Just put this together. Everything works fine for a couple of minutes, then trips breaker. I'm using a 2000 watt Wadlow heat stick and when I turn it on, it heats up very hot and then trips breaker. Running 50 amp gfci circuit. Any ideas why this is happening? Also what is the best way to...

you will only feed 1 leg of 220 to terminal #10 and a neutral to terminal 9 on the 2352. do not put 220 to it. you will also have to run a ground to your rig by running 4 wires to your panel(2 hot, 1 neutral and a ground). ground rod not a good idea. Find PJ's wiring diagrams they'll show you...