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You're not looking. As I said, next up is motorizing it with a cheap dc gear motor. If it works out, then it will be a complete 'hands-off' motorized roller mill that will fit in the palm of your hand. The gains will be - Cheap and easy to build and with spare parts abundant on ebay - Hands...

@Aristotelian: You have a valid point, but I'd say it depends on the beer as well. If brewing a DIPA somewhat stale malt is probably less of an issue than in a pilsner.

It is not clear what you want to avoid here... Is it the submersion part or the copper part? You could get a stainless immersion chiller if copper is the issue. Or a plate chiller or counterflow chiller if you want it out of the pot. Or even give 'no chill' a try.

@kombat: Funny. I usually compare it to coffee. Grounds vs beans.

@Garmoni: If you'd searched the forum you'd found a wealth of threads answering the same question. That said, a couple of weeks should be fine. Store cool and airtight if possible.

Nah. Well, I guess there will be ppl who think so, but as long as you are able to lauter on your setup without stuck mashes, I wouldn't worry about it.

...and larger diameter rollers need less/no knurling to 'grab' the grain, reducing tearing/shredding of the husk further.

If you are converting to SSR, you must desolder the relays (or the connection will short out when the relay closes) . Then bridge the indicated connections by soldering in a piece of wire. You also can do what @stoneBriar suggests (leave the relays in place and use AC/AC SSR's), but it sort of...

I'd say mash temp control. Don't get me wrong here, if you built a nice shiny stainless RIMS setup with PID control and what not, that is awesome. I'm all for that stuff, because I like tinkering. I just don't think it will have that much of an impact on the finished beer over just mashing in at...

Yes you can (adjust duty cycle with OVBSC that is). As for throttling: The good way would be to use two elements, say 1kW and 1.5kW. Then you have the option of running both (2.5kW), either one (1.5kW or 1kW) or even both in series (for ~600W), for a total of four possible heat settings...

Yes. You'd probably want to tweak the output parameters (SO, PO and maybe others). Read the manual.

No,you are probably bettor off putting the probe in the middle of the mash. However, if the wort at the bottom heats up that much more than the rest of the grain bed, that is probably the real issue. Before changing the probe placement, try to lower the heating power and/or increase the flow...

Hi @mattd2 and thanks for your reply and interest! I'm currently testing a few things out and tweaking stuff, but mainly waiting for a few key parts to arrive. I don't really want to post any pictures and stuff right now, as it is not really functioning at the moment (need drive for second...

Even with a slowly running pump, you should not have that much difference. The pump should even things out faster than the heater heats. Temp probe placement can be an issue. If it is close to the heater and in a place where flow is restricted å, then it could pick up heat that has not 'evened...

No, no datasheet that I know of. NTC 10k b3435 does however define the the temperature/resistance curve. I have the data on the github page if you're interested. But that is pretty much all (at least I) know.

@dagibson: Possible? Probably yes. All the sketch really needs is a couple of GPIOs (digitalRead / digitalWrite) and a reasonably accurate delay function. It should be possible to port this to RPi fairly easily. A google even found a project to run Arduino code on the Raspberry or WiringPi might...

Obviously, this is just proof of concept this far. It needs a hopper and a gear motor. But speed is not my concern. If it just does its own thing, I don't mind it chugging along for hours if that's what it takes. Brewing takes me around 6 hours (give or take). Before that, I make a starter a few...

@bionut: sorry man, I wouldn't even have started it if I hadn't gotten the previous (I wouldn't say old) mill sold locally :)

Some background first. I've built a motorized monster mill. That sucker milled malt like nobodies business. Once I finished it, I realized that I didn't very much care for it. I vented about in this thread, looking for a solution that fitted my needs better. The short story is, I don't need a...

@0wly055: It isn't as much about quality as what triac happen to be be used. You can 'luck out' and stumble on a Fotek branded knock off that happens to use a triac that is rated for more than 10A.