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Objection, your honor! Asked and answered. Edit: To elaborate. TEC's offer more drawbacks than benefits here (and they are difficult to do 'right'). You are better off getting a fridge.

Try this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/dixell-temperature-controller-xmtd-digital-temperature-controller-STC-1000/1305777_32377151149.html

Yes, boil is independent of temp readings.

There still hope :) Just try again (and again if needed).

That *should* work (I mean, as far as I can tell). Also, the link you supplied is not working, but I fixed it in the quote above). I'm sorry, I don't follow what you are trying to say here... The pro mini clone you indicated you had already purchased, says it has an ATmega168. That MCU has...

@FireManDan: I'm sorry, yes you do. I didn't notice that the Arduino you got, has an ATmega168. You need an ATmega328 based one. The one you got only has half the code space, and that is not enough.

Sure, it usually comes down to the Arduino using an old version of the bootloader (that is bigger and thus leaves less space for the sketch). Look for these lines near the top of the sketch: if you intend to use Fahrenheit change the 1 following INCLUDE_CELSIUS_HEX_DATA to a 0 (or vice versa...

@Emile666: You don't power up the entire unit, only the 5v rail (the relays won't work). Powering through the programmer should not be an issue, the 5v supplied comes from USB and should be well enough to feed both the programmer and the STC. Not that there's anything wrong with powering...

@Toejam792: Using either mains or Vcc for programming is fine (with a diode in line with Vcc, even both at the same time should be fine), either will power the chip. But yeah, mains powering and using the 'press down the pin header with your hand' method of programming, is a bad idea for obvious...

@Toejam792: I'm not all that familiar with the STM version STC's, but I do know that you don't *need* them mains powered during programming, so I think that is terrible advice to give as a general statement. I would suspect that you either have a bad/no +5V (power) connection or a weak/bad +5V...

Ok, so this is probably an old one, but I hadn't heard it before (also a bit nerdy, which I like..) So... "How do you make beer?" "Just pour root beer in a square glass."

I tend to err on the side of caution, and avoid people as much as possible. Works well for me :)

Sure you could. It is probably the 5v regulator that would be damaged in that case. I think they are pretty good at handling the abuse, but you never know. My guess would be that it takes more energy for the relay to switch when under load. And you might be dropping the 5v rail enoug to bring...

Broke in our new barbie today, never had a propane one before. It rocked.

@passedpawn : Southern Comfort is a really cool movie. (I almost choked on my coffee, when I saw you categorizing it as a Vietnam war movie, but I looked it up, and sure enough, It was set in that time. I just never made that connection, since it is not set in Vietnam.) If I have to pick only...

*sigh* No, of course you are right. And the fact that there are safer alternatives, some that really aren't any more expensive, is just not reason enough.

@Dcpooks: You really don't understand why minimizing the risk of burning your house (and yourself) down, might be something some people find to be worthwhile?

That is 100% not true.

Yes it would. The APF toggles alarms and pauses. I suggest you read the documentation. I've tried to explain it as best I could there.

@gillie: No, not really. Currently, the program ends when boil time is up. After that you're on your own :) You can however manually turn on the pump by setting the cP parameter to 1 and then turn it off (cP = 0) after you're done whirlpooling.