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What did you use to treat the wood again? Sealant? Boric acid? Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

I like your design. How hard is it to flip the lid up? I was considering doing something similar minus the indoor taps (shared walls won't work out).

So, I have 18" between my counter and an overhead cabinet in my utility room. I was thinking of building a set of taps under there with the short black tap handles. Do you think that is enough space? I was thinking of putting the spout at maybe 10", so I would have 8" for the tap and...

Thanks Cank! I just ordered 10. I already had 10 rtd sensors off of eBay for $6 shipped, so I will probably go the rtd route. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Ok, so I have never used a rims tube before. I have only used a cooler. Joe hard are they to clean. Basically, pulling the element is the only way to scrub in there. I was hoping to flush with boiling water and cleaner as my primary cleaning method. I had an alternate idea. I could...

I like your idea of dedicated lines and no valve on the mash tun. I think the extra fittings and hose (long hose laying on grain bed similar to Kal's setup) may cost almost as much as the valve. I will have to think about it a bit. The reason I am going through the rims tube is that it will...

So, the HLT, the Bk, and the RIMS tube have heaters. The HLT is elevated and provides hot water to start the mash and later for sparge water. The pump can recirculate water in the MLT, pump wort to the BK, or pump to the chiller. The three way valves select between drawing from the BK and...

Ok, so I have done a searches on the internet for rtd circuits. I plan to interface to an arduino. I have had various successes in my search but nothing that I did not have to modify. So, let's compile a thread with rtd circuits that have been tested and used for brewing. Sent from my...

So this is a rough sketch. There are four 3-way valves. One is in either side of the pump. One is on the rims output and one is on the MLT. Sorry the sketch is rough. All hoses are pretty short. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

So, I am laying out my electric brewery. I have it set up so that the lower hoses from the MLT and BK are never moved during brewing and my exit from my rims tube moves from the MLT and BK up high. My HLT connects and disconnects from the MLT. I hope that makes sense. So, I have determined...

Ok, I ended up buying 10 waterproof rtd sensors for $6 shipped on eBay. They appear to have the sensor part in a stainless tube that is closed on one end. If they come in and are sealed in a stainless shell, then I will rtv them into plugs. If the metal part is not stainless, then I will...

So I have a straight 5500 watt ULWD element for my Rims that will run on 120v. For my boils kettle, I am using a ripple element. I may do the same thing for the HLT, but I have not decided yet. Thanks everyone for your input. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Right now I am leaning toward drilling a plug and using food safe silicone with a stainless metric probe. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Is that what you did? Do you need any heat transfer material in the tube? I thought about buying a plug and drilling it out, maybe I could just drill until thin. And install into the opening. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

So I am trying to piece together an electric brewery but save money where I can. I like Kal's setup but cannot afford it. So I am taking every item and searching for the best bang for the buck. I found numerous cheaper rtd pt100 sensors but most of the cheep ones ($5) are 5 mm in diameter...

Hmmm, I was hoping to recirculate, I could try that first and if that does not work, I can pump from the insulated tank to my plastic barrel, then pump it back afterwards. Based on my numbers, the glycol will average out to 46 degrees (assuming wort and glycol water have the same Specific...

Kal, thanks for the response. I am not sure if I described everything well, or I may be missing something. Below is more of an explanation. What I was going to do was have 35-40 gallons of glycol at 0 degrees F. The idea would be that I would start chilling my reservoir much earlier...

Btw, I thought the water heater was a cheap way to get an insulated tank that looks nice from the outside. I still think my reasons are valid, just need to make sure the tank will not be too painful to get clean and operate for many years. The 34 gallon plastic barrel has a gasket in the lid...

I hope I did not get your hopes up too high.... But I need some advice. A friend is giving me a water cooler from some old film development equipment. I plan to use it for a glycol cooler for my e-brewery counter flow wort chiller. I plan to have the cooler circulate chilled glycol/water...

So, the element that I selected is a straight ULWD element. It was $17. I am tempted to use that one for my HLT and boil kettle to save some money over the ripple ones Kal uses. Is there a huge advantage to the ripple elements over the straight ones? Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew