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I appreciate everyone's feedback. I do plan on having temperature sensors all over the place and I will have a float valve in the BK and MLT, so the heating elements won't fire unless liquid is detected. I also bought 5 wire valves that have feedback if the valves are fully open or closed.

Btw, I will post a build thread when I get further.

So, for a little background..... I have already designed the plumbing, the vessels, the heating and cooling system, the control system is in the works, the hop additions mechanism is being designed right now. So far, I have some confidence in what is designed so far. The boil over concern...

So I am using keggles, so my boil kettle is fixed. I do want to push the limits on that volume so I wanted to solve the boil problem another way. I guess by adding my tube, I am in essence changing the volume. I thought I would time the boil vs the temp to adjust the heater after a...

Hello, I am working on an automatic brewery that runs unattended until just before transfer to fermenter. I thought of an way to prevent boil over and thought I would ask about it. What if I take a lid for my boil kettle, drill small holes around the perimeter, cut a large duct size hole...

I think I found it.

Does anyone have any machinist quality drawings for tri-clamp ferrules? I just want the standard dimensions, even a cap would work. Looking for 2" and maybe 1.5". Other sizes would be nice too. Thanks

I think that the pico does not actually achieve boil. I was curious how you would change your brew schedule to compensate.

Hello all. I am working on an automated brewery using keggles. I read the zymatic pico brew manual for inspiration and discovered that they "boil" at 207 F for a longer time. Since my ultimate goal is to be able to run unattended during boil, I was considering lowering the temperature...

I like your design. Where did you get your float switch from? What part number does it have? Thanks

So I am making progress. I have a blower I am planning to use. I am trying to decide on the hood material. I am leaning toward using Formica over plywood with rtv used on the seams. My brew stand is made from pallet racks with plywood and 2x4 shelves. So screwing in a hood would be easy...

Thanks Pete. I am leaning towards running two 10/3 Romex right now because it is significantly cheaper and I can buy drop from my friends wiring project.

I plan to hard wire the box, so soow is overkill. To hardwire I am looking at 40 ft or so to the sub-panel. I guess I am being cheap right now.

So to be clear..... I have enough power available to have 60+ amps running to my system. I have 2 wavy 5500w ulwd elements (boil and HLT) and one straight 5500w ulwd element for PWM controlled Rims. My only drawback is the $100+ power cord I did not want to buy. Trying to decide if...

I never thought about doing it that way. Do you get the mlt up to temperature before adding the grain? How long does it take to get the mlt water up to temperature?

So, the plan is to time the start of the second batch to be ready to boil when the first batch boil is finished, so I can just pump the first batch through the cfc then immediately fill and boil the second after minor cleaning.

Hello all. I am building a system that was inspired by Kal, but is different. On my system, I will be able to boil one batch while brewing a second. The heaters are electrically independent and I was planning on running more current capacity to my control box. I am using keggles for my...

It is probably good that you did not get nitrogen. From my understanding, you need a different, higher pressure regulator. Just my 2c.

So, I was just thinking. If I have a pid controller with pwm control of my ULWD 5500watt rims tube feeding my MLT, would I even need an HLT? I could just flow my sparge water directly through my rims tube and have my pid controller warm the water to my set point. I would think that...

Great pics everyone! I think I am getting some good ideas. I am thinking of only covering my BK. Does anyone see much of a downside?