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the biggest challenge with using TECs is getting the waste heat away. if you are just trying to make it cooler, its not too hard, if you want to remove a specific amount of heat, then you have to do some thinking.

i've been doing this for the last 6 years, so i've had a lot of practice. at work, we always go with custom heatsinks, look at aavid, they've got all the engineering data there. i think custom thermoelectric also sells sinks, ferrotec, also sells these things, as well as melcor/laird. i don't...

the selecting of the right coldside/tec module/hotside/fan combination is an iterative process. here's a first pass. the hs/fan combo is a pretty little thing. there is some information but not the thermal resistance. its not particularly easy to figure out the thermal resistance of a...

that fan will definitely work inside (if you can get at least 50% of that air to flow over the heatsink. you will need to get your heatsink fins 2c (3.6f) below the temperature you want. so if you want 13c interior (~55f) then you need to cool your heatsink fins to 11c (51.4f). this seems...

your 2" foam board will cut the external influence by about 1/2. so you will have 30w plus your fan. somewhere on the fan you plan on using will be something giving its watts (it may be in the form of volts and amps, just multiply them together to get watts). the other thing you will need to...

you know, i actually haven't looked into it. single modules are pretty cheap, but add a power supply, heatsinks and fans, it all adds up. when i build these things they are used in semiconductor fabs, and nanotech labs, where conventional refrigerants are a big no no, i typically make then...

it might work, but i wouldn't count on it. the heatsink will loose a lot of efficiency when air is not really moving over it. the more air the better your efficiency.

at this point there's some real math involved to do it right. but here's enough to select some heatsinks (your next step). first know your heat load: that's the sum of everything that makes heat. your fermenting beverage, heat gain through the walls of your enclosure, and heat from your...

hi, i make precision temperature controlled enclosures for a living. we use TEC modules all the time. the thing that you have to keep in mind, is that you have to dump a lot of heat. basically you have to size your heat sink to be large enough to dump the heat you want to loose from your...

i had read kal's instructions. and i posted the original question. then someone said that the 1.375 was too big, so i started stressing over it. but never-the-less, i've got some rather expensive kettles that i can't patch, so i've really got to get it right. i'm pretty sure i do have some...

well, i bought the set from harbor freight. here's my problem. the set says 'mechanical knockout set, 1/2" to 1-1/4". those are the pipe sizes they make clearance holes for. the 1" is the exact same size as the one i borrowed (measures on my caliper as 1.375" dia). so i'm back where i...

there is a hf near me, i just looked up the set, $24.99 now. for up to 10 gauge mild steel. it might not last long, but keggles are stainless. i have some bayou classic 44 qt pots, not sure of the gauge, i'll have to look it up

i actually do something very similar to this for a living (i design precision controlled enclosures, for semiconductor manufacturing), achieving +/-0.005 C with a single probe is possible with a well designed system. i agree with bad news. one probe is plenty, picking the place for it is the...

not a bad idea. it should work

i'm going with the hole-saw. i've got a circle cutting jig for my band saw, so i'll carve out a backing block (it'll take 30min to glue up an cut), it'll give me better clamping on the drill press too, i like having a nicely secured part, when i'm standing right there. i'll be starting a build...

how many watts? electricity and water, are a dangerous combination. you can very easily kill yourself, or burn your house down or both. i hope you have someone that can give you some help. but basically, you can buy 5500w elements. that's 23 amps at 240v (dryers are usually 30a so you're...

in short, yes. though, if it is a very wide mouth kettle, the heat loss may exceed the wattage of the element, if it is an element smaller than 1920W. and that means, it will reach some maximum temperature below boil, and stay there.

i've actually got a big delta floor standing 3/4hp drill press, plus a boat-load of clamps. i actually just had the idea of cutting a form to fit the inside of the pot, as a back-up, and then just cutting really slow with lots of oil into the pot with a holesaw. the form behind should keep it...

ok, so finally after too much time, i'm back to building my electric brewery. i'm using some scavenged controllers from work, and a big ass pump, also salvaged from work. i have 2 44 qt ss cajun kettles. i've got some 4500w ultra low watt density heating elements, and a greenlee punch...

most pid controllers have only one rtd input. if you were to attach multiple sensors, the result would likely be totally messed up. rtd's are resistance based, a bunch of resistors in parallel will not give you the average resistance. 1/r= 1/r1+1/r2, so your resistance is exactly 1/2 the...