Search results

Can't tell from the pic if the kettle has male or female plugs on it. If you're using female on the kettle, then you have live prongs on the controller side - that is really unsafe. I would suggest changing that before someone gets hurt...

What he said, with a 300x120x20 heatsink you may not need the fan. Mine is about half that size. You may want to space the SSRs out a bit to allow for more even heat distribution. Do a test run to see how hot it gets.

My heatsink was getting hot enough to burn you - probably 150F or so. I added a 90mm 110v fan to it for forced cooling, and now it just barely gets warm.

I brew in the kitchen without any extra ventilation; never had any problems with condensation. But then I do have 9ft ceilings, and air in my house is pretty dry (under 30% humidity), so it just acts as a giant humidifier. It's not much different than stovetop brewing in terms of humidity.

Looking good! I've been very happy with my system so far; glad to have provided inspiration for your build. As far as the heatsink goes, it certainly looks undersized to me. Check Ebay for a large aluminum heatsink - go as big as you can. Good luck with your build!

You cannot do this with a single GFCI outlet. If you want to use non-GFCI outlets, you may want to use in-line GFCI cords, for example these Tasco 20 amp ones.

The diagram is in the first post of the thread - there are no instructions, you just have to follow the diagram, it's pretty self-explanatory. This controller runs two 120v elements using two 20A 120v circuits.

Very interesting... I placed an order through Midwest in June, and then had fraudulent charges on my CC (luckily Chase blocked them). Have not received anything from Midwest as stated. Have these notifications been made over email or snail mail?

1".

You could use 12 gauge throughout the controller, it's just more difficult to work with, and you may have trouble finding 12-gauge terminals that fit the small contacts of the PID controller and the push buttons. And you would definitely need a larger enclosure - there's no way you can fit all...

For the element circuits you need 12 gauge wire; for the rest, you can use thinner wire (I used 18 gauge), since there's really not much amperage there.

I would love a code as well. Thanks!

I broke both hot and neutral jumpers off to have two completely separate circuits. The ground wire is common.

I ran hot and neutral through it for both lines. All ground leads are attached to one of the bolts I used to mount the terminal block. With a larger enclosure, you could certainly use separate blocks. This was a very tight squeeze into the small Auber box. I love this little rig; brewed a 10...

Kolsch?

I used one of those before building my rig, and I will second the previous poster - just use an IC. The spigot is too high from the bottom, and you'll be leaving a couple gallons of wort if you try to use it. I just used an IC and then siphoned wort to the fermenter. It will also struggle to...

Dipa?

Ipa

Lambic?

Bdsa?