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Is ok.

As the quarter, thin pice of plastic/wood bellow the feet alway help. I use scrap of pcb.

I got a 20 probes lot from china, 10 where ok and 10 show that behavior. They worked with 4.2V and lower and not at 5V. None of them passed the test of original Maxim chips, of course.

Lot of more pins and memory space. Not to mention dual core cpu.

I could not find any datasheet for rpi4 cpu, but here is the one of rpi3+ Raspberry Pi 3+ Module There on page 12 you see absolute maximum of 4.1v Instead of redesing the board just put the pullup in the connector between pins 1 and 7.

The pullup resistor need to go to 3.3v, since the gpio will break if pulled to 5v. As show in the picture is ok. The DS18b20 are powered with 3v, that is near the lower limit. I prefer to put Ds18b20 vcc to 5v and keep only the pullup to 3.3v.

I agree with papacap. Put the uln outputs in the ground side (-) of the ssr.

It is better to put some gain between the gpio and the SSR. A transistor or ULN2003 will do. Very few SSR really triger at 3v. The wiring of therms si correct in the image. The pullup could be lower, 3k3 ir 2k7 if the wires are long. But allways connect it to 3.3V, no 5v on gpios. The therm vcc...

Well well well, the most important change I see is the Licence , now is GPL. Many many thanks Manuel !!!!

Nothing changed in the repository in 17 months!!!

For that you need to look at the battery datasheet, not all batterys deplet with the same voltage drop. https://batteryuniversity.com/_img/content/18650chargeDischarge-powercell-web.jpg You can see the drop is more or less linear, but you need to know the ebowl point. For iSpindle the discharg...

Yes day_trippr , all work ok with 820 ohms pull up to 3,3V, and 100nF between 5V and gnd in the branches to avoid the 85C errors.

You need to leave the kettle in Auto, with a very low target temp. That way the kettle will not go on until the mash step sets the desired target temp.

I have 4 fermenters in the basement, so there is a 15m line to the first sensor connector , and 2 m between the next and so on. Eache sensor has a 1m o 1.5m line to the line connector. The brewing sensor are next to the controller.

I have had many problems with longer lines with many DS18B20. The best solutions was to go down with the pullup. Datasheet states the Vout low at 7mA, so you can go as low as 820 ohms on 3,3v

Yes, you shuld cut the 2nd pin from the adapter to the display, and wire 5v to the display directly. Other option is cut the pcb trace in that pin and solder the wire on it.

Ther is a walk around to this, power the display with 5v and the I2C adapter with 3V3. Just do not connect display Vcc to the adapter Vcc. Works like a charm.

Between the arrow you must have AC voltage 6 o 7 volts at least. there is a 4 legged round rectifier bridge next, that will produce 12V DC, since the relays are 12v. Right where the red wire is soldered there is a transistor shaped voltage regulator, 78L05 I guest. That one is the main suspect...

It is very difficult any RF device works in a keg. A completely closed steel can is a "Faraday jail" and no electromagnetic signal will go in or out. You will have to drill the top and install a passive repeater antenna, a short length of coaxial cable with 3cm of the shield removed on each end.

The only down side is if a keg is contaminated that goes to all the ones behind it. There ara a gas purge with a plastic ball, that will float and close the exit when full filled.