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The Spider on a SO socket could be done with coper wire, no need of rod. Just 1mm or big wire will do. Mount it on a pvc pipe and adjust the impedance matching with the ground radials vertical angle. I have done many of them for 144Mhz band. QRV for help.

The transistors and R under the D1 mini are the level shifters for the 5V display. There is also the 4k7 pull up for the one wire bus.

Too bad I just chequed ESP-03 lacks analag input, so no battery voltage monitoring. Not good.

If you go for a slim device, consider ESP-03, it is only 13mm wide. Have a few less pins, but enough for iSpindle

You can do the same with CraftBeerPi and some Sonoff or similar wifi relay. Most are for 10 or 16 Amp, but they may power a suitable contactor. Several of my friends set up the time step to start heating the strike water 5 or 6am to begin mashing when they wake up at 7.

Be aware that that 30% of gas heat goes out to the sides of the kettle, just where your electric wires runs. Keep them cool.

Of course. You always need a temp controler to archive the desired fermentation temp.

I recommend to wound up heating cable on the fermenter and then isolate it with 2cm foam all around. That way the heat is keep inside the insulation. This is an example wire...

The main problem is to get white foam on blue liquid. Live long and prosper

Pullup is a resistor that pulls the voltage in the data line when the probe sets free the line. the lower the value more current will flow and will pull up faster. 4k7 is traditional for 5v supply. 3k3 with 3,3v but can be as low as 820 ohms.

Did you check if the probes where Maxim or not? Look here Counterfeit DS18B20

on cooling there is a delay before the compresor kicks in . May be it is set too long?

I see plenty of chiller with a copper coil in a tank with water glycol mix with no problem. Any way the system I talk about has no glycol. The freezing gas goes in the copper coil.

They had weels. See here

You need the evaporator of the freezer inside the glycol, otherwise the heat exchange with air in between will be very bad. A frien of me, refrigerator expert, replace the evaporetor all together by a copper tube around the fermenter and insulated the whole thing around. With a 1/5 hp unit it...

May you share the link here?

You can load the sd with raspbian-skech-lite and cbpi3 will run ok. If you want to use a newer version with python 3 get Juan Pablo version https://github.com/jpgimenez/craftbeerpi3.git It work ok on raspbian-buster.

I will advice of a second plate heat exchanger in series with the existing one. Run the first with tap water and the second with glycol from the chiller.

Everyone talks about re proposing the water, but not the energy. At exit the water is hot, ans heating it cost more than water, except near deserted areas.

The example expected the sensor on D10 and iSpindle have it on D6, so you have to modify the example , it is in the few first lines.