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Once you make the change, you'll see no other way to brew.

The big question is, do you have a pump and a way to ramp/maintain temps? It sounds like you do. When pre-boiling I pump through my heat exchanger. To chill I just turn on the cold water from the hose and watch the temp in the HLT until the temp is a few degrees under my first rest temp. When I...

If you want to go 120v, a very attractive option is the Inkbird PID controller. @bobbym sells a modded version with a pump switch. https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tempcontrol_ipb16.htm You can control one element with the Inkbird and run a second straight across at 100% during ramping...

120v brewer here. Don't listen to anyone who tells you 120v will give you an inadequate boil. I have brewed on 120v for several years now. Normal sized boils of 7.5 gallons only require a single 1650 watt element to achieved the recommended 6-10% boil off (0.5 to 0.75 gallons in my case). I can...

Looks like temp control coils for a SS Brewtech fermentor to me. https://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/ftss

Could it be that it prevents people from copying the software and passing it out to all their brewing buddies for free?

I have owned two Brausupply 120v controllers and have been very pleased with both.

Anyone else not able to see the pics, or is it just me and Tapatalk having issues again?

Why do you want to remove the probe?

Just today I was emailing with Corey, of Hosehead controller fame, to see what he thought of the possibility of combining your software with his hardware. I wish you two could get in cahoots to offer an turnkey solution.

You can definitely boil that volume with that kind of power. Last brew day I boiled 7.5 gallons with one 1650 watt element, lid on with a rectangular vent cut in it.

1. Yes, because you'll be no sparge you start with all your water. 2. Not sure I did a good job explaining. There is no HERMs coil, only the heat exchanger which takes the place of the coil. On one side of the heat exchanger you pump water from the HLT/BK to the heat exchanger and back to the...

Honing in on your saving money comment here with some suggestions. Go with a two vessel no sparge set up and upsize to the 62 (15.5 gallon) or 64 (16 gallon) quart Bayou Classic pots. 62 quart is selling for a tad over $100 right now on Amazon. Not only will this save you money on vessels, but...

@TxBrew , thanks for the giveaway!

Couple of thoughts on the recent discussion around 120v. I'm a 120v brewer, but use two elements during ramping and heading. I've easily boiled 7.5 gallons of wort with a single 1650 watt element, so don't be concerned with that. Secondly, even though Clawhammer explicitly says the element is...

If you have no intention of doing step mashes, then you'll be better off figuring out how to insulate, minimize heat loss and hold temp. And personally, I'd skip the sanke and go with a cheap Bayou Classic or something with a similar aspect ratio. As far as volumes go, you're going to be more...

Oh yes, you're right. By default it is set to +1, which makes the timer start early, so that makes sense. I just installed mine today, replacing the 120. Tightened up a few loose-ish connections in my box, put it all back together, and took it for a test drive with a little water in mash mode...

With BIAB, the timing of milling is going to be a minor concern. Doughing in with minimal uptake is the hard part. Read through this thread to get some pointers. http://lowoxygenbrewing.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=312

Excellent! Just what I wanted to know!

Another question for y'all. The manual for the 310 says... "When temperature rise to the bAST, the output will automatically reduce to a lower level to prevent a messy boiling over." Does anyone know what % output this "lower level" is, and how is it determined? I have some of my own ideas...