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What are you going to circulate your HLT with while you're using one pump to chill and the other to circulate the mash?

You might already know this, but here's the math behind it. Volts x Amps = Watts 240 volts x 30 amps = 7200 watts 5500 watts / 240 volts = ~23 amps As said above, you've got plenty of room running a single 5500 watt element, plus a bunch of other stuff, on a 30 amp service. Another example...

Just thought of a question on your back-to-back approach. Wouldn't you need three pumps to do that? I guess you could avoid needing three pumps if you don't chill the first batch while performing the mash on the second batch. But if you did, you'd need a water pump for the HLT, a pump to...

Sounds interesting. Went to look at it and got this.

Don't you have a wort chiller and a pump? It's dead simple to chill your strike water if you do. I do it every brew day because I boil my strike water to deaerate it.

I wouldn't imagine DMS would rear it's ugly head unless boil off % dropped below 5-6. I doubt many folks here are south of 15%.

Where are you monitoring the mash temp? In the return to the MT? I run a two vessel counterflow HERMs with a single PID, the Auber EZBoil DSPR310. I use the wort return to the MLT as the control point during the mash, but because the EZBoil is also used to control the boil, I needed an...

Threaded, 1/2". You would buy a tri clamp with 1/2" female threads and thread it in.

So there is no true automation that progresses brewing steps without manual intervention, such as that provided by a BCS or other software interface? It's just manual controllers.

What automation platform are you using? BCS or some other software package? I didn't see anything specified in the attachment.

FYI, unlike in years past, they're all over the place nowadays. Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KCJX8W/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 Alibaba https://m.alibaba.com/product/60572805160/5500-watt-ripple-heating-element-for.html?spm=a2706.7843299.1998817009.52.jC2FoU eBay...

I'll suggest another option to the HERMs. Use an external counterflow heat exchanger, either a plate, pipe-in-pipe (traditionally called counterflow), or even a shell and tube. This has a few benefits. One, you only need enough water in the HLT to cover the heating element(s) and not an entire...

Price drop. $220.

What's an EZBoil element? Haven't heard of that one yet. EZBoil controller from Auber, I'm familiar with. To answer your question, it could be your new kettle that's to blame. But for reference, I use 1650 watt elements and run one element at 100% power to boil about 7.5 gallons. Edit: I...

Your clearance needs are going to be driven by your pump. The closer the dip tube is to the bottom of the kettle, the more pressure drop and less flow you'll be able to pass through it. With my MKII pumps, I've found that I need about 3/8" clearance from the bottom, or about enough room to...

How exactly are they behaving? Spring operated relief valves do not go fully open until they're above set pressure. When they do go fully open, you'll hear a big pop. The valve will finally reseat at some point below the set pressure. You might already know all this, but I say it because some...

For clarity, do you want two elements in both the HLT and BK, or one in each? I don't have a diagram, at least not one that would make sense to anyone but me, but I did just wire up a control panel with two 120v circuits. It's a two-vessel, two pump, no sparge set up. FWIW, I was able to build...

How's the build coming along?

Have you tried brewing on 120v? If not, you should give it a try. I recommend using whatever you have available. I use 120v because that's what I've got access to. There are pros and cons to each voltage. The oft cited benefit of 240v being a lot faster is really only about 15- 20 minutes...