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Bingo.

This is exactly why I have a level gauge in my MT. The level in the gauge gives an immediate indication if your pump rate is out stripping the rate the liquid is falling through the grain. I set the pump flow rate so that the level in the gauge drops no more than a few inches.

Good advice! Since the bags are in 5 lb increments, I can mix a little at a time and keep the others sealed. Unfortunately, I'm not quite as frugal as you are with its use. I go though about 10 lbs a year. I might see if anyone local wants to divvy it up with me.

So here's my shopping list. Total is $92.15 for 32 pounds. $2.55/lb Is this all I need? EDTA: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07662XW35/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 Sodium Percarbonate: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GP6S0H8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 Sodium Metasilicate...

Is it effective in hard water without the chelates? Edit: so in theory, I could buy these two things in the correct proportions and be good to go. Sodium Percarbonate (Oxidizer) Kosher 25 Lb Consists of 5- 5 Lb Packs (9802) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GP6S0H8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20...

If forgoing the dish detergent, what chelating agent(s) do you use?

Awesome update! So you don't use any sorbate or NaMB/KMB in cider? I've found that most do.

Spitballing here. Are there forces on the shaft and impeller in the motor up orientation that should be avoided? Could the orientation result in decoupling of the magnets from the shaft/impeller? The weight of the impeller, albeit small, will be pulling against the forces of the magnets on the...

What state? Ohio, Georgia, Illinois, Kansas, other?

FWIW, per Blichmann's website... "All BoilCoil[emoji769] and RIMS-Rocket[emoji769] Electric Heaters are rated at or below 30 Watts/in2, less than Ultra-Low-Watt-Density!" 30 watts/in2 = 4.65 watts/cm2

I was pondering exactly the same thing. I actually think it'd be interesting to see both numbers, pre and post boil.

No takers on the "let's squash three-vessel HERMs" talk. I'll bite [emoji3]. But first, I really like that heating element. I'll go ahead and admit something that influences my take on the issue. I'm a believer in the impacts of oxygen on wort production. That means I pre-boil all my water to...

I didn't know V ball valves were within the grasp of us lowly home brewers. I've used them plenty of times in industrial applications, but always assumed they would be too expensive for an individual to use it at home.

I love this approach.

You probably know I stand in the camp of simplicity. I like the 12/24v option for direct drive of components.

Another thing to consider if you want to save some coin. A two vessel no sparge set up is great with the only limiter being you can't efficiently produce back-to-back batches. Personally, I have what I call a two vessel counterflow HERMs system. I use my external chiller instead of a HERMs coil...

Personally, I would avoid those kettles. Tri-clad bottom means no bottom drain. Plus there's no need for a tri-clad bottom if you're using heating elements.

Yup. Or you can even do things like attach the pump directly to the kettle. If you have a stand like mine, which is a series of wire shelves, it's dead simple to plumb up a bottom drain. No need to drill holes in a table.

Two things. It is definitely possible to get a good whirlpool and trub cone with an element in your kettle. I do it every brew day. And, why would you move your kettle to clean it? If you want access to the element to clean it, install a tri-clamp fitting in the kettle. Don't get me wrong, I...

-Punching Holes: what I'm referring to is using a knockout punch a opposed to a drill bit. Knockout punches can be more expensive, but they are by far the most enjoyable and easiest tool for the job of putting precise holes in your kettles. The highest quality brand out there is Greenlee, but...