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Excellent!

I can see doing that if the heatsink is larger than the SSR. But the one in the screenshot above is just like mine and the heat sink is almost exactly the dimensions of the SSR. There's no where to fasten the heatsink separately. Actually that's what the two bolt holes on the top side of the...

I believe we found your problem.

Edit: one left Ball Lock Kegs - $45 each, 3 to sell. Swapped to a new fermenting vessel and don't need as many of these as I once did. They're the typical used soda kegs. Nothing particularly attractive about them, but they all hold pressure and have new-ish seals. Local pick up only. Sorry...

SOLD Duda Diesel DUDAHX-B3-12A-30ST - $40 30 plate heat exchanger. Used this thing to make a lot of good beer, but I just swapped it out for a shell and tube HEX and this is just sitting collecting dust. Local pick up preferred. I took some pictures of a few small dents on the back. This is...

Pictures

Recently changed some things out in my brewery. That means I need to sell some stuff. Preference given to local pick up. I live at Ella and 11th inside the 610 loop and work near Uptown Park. Brausupply SV120 - $220 This is a 120v 20 amp controller. Comes with a brand new PT100 temp probe but...

I still can't figure out how you mounted the ssr to the heat sink. I just built a panel so this is fresh in my mind. I couldn't simply cut a square and mount them because there would be nothing holding them in place. For my installation I cut a very large rectangle out of the top of my...

Interesting. I haven't had any problems with them so far, and I've been using them about two years I think. They don't get cycled on/off much. The ones I use for pumps get the most use.

Get one of these. https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-x-4-in-x-2-in-PVC-Junction-Box-E989NNJ-CAR/100404097 And one of these. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-20-Amp-Single-Pole-Toggle-Switch-1-Pack-GSW-110/100184840 And a couple of strain reliefs. Install the switch and call it a day.

Really not trying to be a jerk here. Sometimes typed words do not come across with the intended meaning. But I would say it has everything to do with the subject at hand because stratification was proposed as an explanation as to why it would work. That is not true. If it were me, I'd use...

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but this is a common misconception. They will not stratify.

Yes, heed these words of wisdom.

In that case, just get a couple of 12 gauge extension cords and call it good. You can scavenge wire from the extension cords if you need to wire pig tails on your elements. Alternately, go with a couple of BrewHardware.com Hot Rods and wire extension cords directly to them. I've done exactly...

Making some assumptions here, as it's not clear from your post what you're system is going to look like (elements plugged directly into the wall, or a control panel, or something else entirely?). Assuming you have a control panel, if it were me I'd go with 12 gauge and design the system to be...

Beat me to it.

My opinion, avoid the zinc plated elements. Use stainless instead. And for what it's worth, I also use 120v. I use two elements only for ramps between rest temps and ramp from mash to boiling. I boil with a single element. A single 1650 watt element has no problem boiling off the recommended...

Speaking a little out of turn here, but take a close look and you'll see the SSRs for the HLT and BK are in their own small enclosure without a fan or even any other components. The other 40 amp SSRs in the main enclosure appear to be carrying very small loads just based on wire gauge, so the...

A few things. One 1500 element should be plenty of power to boil your batch size. Shoot for 6-8% boil off. Leave the lid mostly on to accomplish this. Boil at least 6% and you should have no issues with DMS. Only recirculate during the last 10 minutes of the boil to sanitize equipment. Don't...

Are you in mash or boil mode?