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Hi All. Currently, I'm using an immersion chiller that we hook up to regular house water. I was wondering how well it would work if i bought another immersion chiller, and put it in a bucket with ice and water, and pre-cooled the water before it entered the immersion chiller in the wort. The...

What does everyone do to give their all-grain beer that "something extra"? For example, what do you do that gets your extraction efficiency to around eighty percent? What do you find that gives you clear and sparkling and clean tasting beer? I think it'd be a great idea to start a thread...

Cool. Keep us posted. I'll give an update right around easter when we can try our test bottle.

Mash hopping.

I'm going for a volume of about 3.0. We used plastic corks, so we just pushed them in and caged them. We added another vial of the White Labs High Gravity yeast for bottling. We're not fooling around - with a ten percent beer, we want to make sure that the yeast has no problems doing what it...

We're also thinking of getting a corona mill so that we can customzie the fineness of our grind for better efficiency. At our homebrew store, they can't adjust the plates of their grinder.

How'd you keep your sparge temperature up on such a slow sparge? or didn't you worry about that?

Currently we're using a bazooka tube. I think we might spend the whole exorbitant, bank-breaking $25 and upgrade to a stainless steel false bottom. I am afraid that we get a bit of channeling with the bazooka tube, and I'd like to alleviate that. On the other hand, we could batch sparge...

By the way, I mashed for attenuation. The mash was at 146F for 2 hours.

We used Wyeast 3787 (or was it 3878?)... and we dumped some White Labs High Gravity yeast into the secondary, and the fermentation was LOOOOONNNGGG! We used ~2lbs of homemade candi sugar. It was super easy to make it. Just boil it on the stove with a little water and citric acid powder, and...

We just bottled our second belgian dark strong ale. We didn't get super great mash efficiency, and we hit 1.084 instead of the expected 1.092 or something like that, but we attenuated down to 1.010 at bottling time, which was much better than we expected. So, we hit our 10% abv goal anyway...

Oh, one more thing i forgot to mention. When I do 1.5 qt/lb for a more attenuable result and a thinner mash, I have problems being able to sparge with the ideal amount of water, and i think that this affects my efficiency. Do you have this issue, as well?

Salsgebom, I have results similar to yours, but I do a fly sparge, and after reading this thread I'm questioning the grind from my local store. We've done a couple of belgian beers lately, which obviously require a pretty hefty grain bill. Our efficiency is also in the mid-sixties, which is...

The OG was about 1.085. I'm not exactly sure what the FG should be, but if we're at 1.015 I'd say we would be just about finished. Eleven weeks is a long time, but at least we know that we won't be drinking green beer. I'm going to add more of the White Labs high gravity yeast for bottling...

Hey all... We brewed a high gravity belgian ale back on 11 December and it looks like it's finishing its fermentation now. We started with WYeast 3787 Trappist High Gravity, and it appeared to stall badly after we transferred it to the secondary after a week or two. So we added some "yeast...

I haven't gotten any cidery flavor, but I am not speaking from lots of experience. Some Belgian breweries use sucrose anyway. I've also heard that the acidity in your wort will invert the sucrose anyway.

I haven't gotten any cidery flavor, but I am not speaking from lots of experience. Some Belgian breweries use sucrose anyway. I've also heard that the acidity in your wort will invert the sucrose anyway.

Isn't the biggest concern with oxidation while the wort is hot? Some yeast companies recommend oxygenation during each transfer.

I'm probably also going to re-yeast for the secondary. It certainly cannot hurt to have more fresh yeast, especially in a high gravity brew. Does anybody recommend re-oxygenating with an O2 tank for this? And yes, I'm also going to re-yeast at bottling time.

I got a lot of my info from a book by Stan Hyeronymous called "Brew Like a Monk" and it suggested mashing the grains at 146. We mashed for 2 hours, then sparged.