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Totally. If you can be convinced to not use phase control, I can't think of an instance when this wouldn't give you sufficient precision in output. Much easier/cheaper to implement, and without all the noise.

I think the set up you describe would be less reliable then using PWM output, with a raspberry pi in the equation. I think you'd be better to use an SSVR and rig up a digital potentiometer to the pi, these work via phase angle.

It will be very inefficient to heat/cool your glycol reservoir, and means it's tied only to a single fermentation in the event they progress different/are different beers/you want to experiment. You could try drum heater belts or similar. Lots on ebay. I'm using just 30 litre stainless...

Looks good to me. I think you could easily make this a 240v panel instead of 240/120v without much changes, and would simplify wiring and likely lower costs a bit. Different power inlet. Different contactors to have 240 coil voltage. Power supply for DC pumps is fine. I use node-red for mine...

If you want to make element selection controlled from RPi, you could run a cheap 5 volt SPDT relay module from the GPIO (using a transistor to amplify voltage if needed, but many will work with just 3.3v) for the purpose of element selection. That relay module would power one of the two...

Your SSRs should not be controlling the mechanical relay coils. Rather, you would use a mechanical relay to make an element "active", typically with a manual switch (3-way switch if you're limited to using one element at at time). THEN, on the appropriate mechanical relay load output, a SSR...

When I download the temperature logs they have a .dms file extension. I'm using Safari. Regardless of file extension, the log viewer works and can export as CSV so that's perfect, thanks!

Perhaps it's been mentioned in this thread, but how do you open the DMS log files after downloading them from brewpiless? Turns out searching DMS on a homebrew forum leads to a lot of erroneous results

Some kind of exception must be encountered in your scenario. In terms of getting the temperature the only difference between my plugin and the default 1wire plugin for actual temperature access IIRC is that Manuel puts almost everything into a try block.

From an electrical and fire safety standpoint, no.

I wrote a kettle controller that does PID-controlled hysteresis - which is what you'd want for fermentation. I wrote that with gas-fired HERMS and RIMS breweries in mind. It has some pretty sophisticated functionality I think, and making it work for fermentation would be as simple as copying it...

I finally got around to writing some stuff on my homebrewing blog about all this: Brewing with Node-RED pt 1: Introduction Brewing with Node-RED pt 2: My Dashboard

Really nice work! I'd like to do a PCB with relays right on it when I find the time.

Hey! Glad to hear it! Widgetlords plugin was only to measure volumes, correct. I know it says on the repo that I'm not offering assistance with it, but if you need nudges or have any suggestions, let me know. That's just there to scare away users looking for a plug-n-play solution.

You definitely could. I've sometimes had wifi issues with my ESP8266's, so I'd personally be cautious of this set up, and prefer a solution like brewpi-esp8266 or brewpiless for cold-side, where the ESP8266 still knows what to do when connectivity is lost. For hot-side as long as you are...

I posted something about this on the CBPi FB usergroup yesterday and was banned and post deleted as a result almost immediately, which is too bad. That group had been the main avenue that I provided support for my several CBPi Plugins. I'm going to leave the plugin repositories up, but I'm...

Possible EMI issue from a nearby compressor starting up/running?

I've mentioned this in a few comments on HBT I think. I started using Strangebrew elsinore for a few years until development stopped, then Craftbeerpi until development stopped (and wrote some plugins along the way). For the last year or so I've been blazing my own path using Node-RED for my...

If you want to control something that runs on AC power - which is usually the case - yes.

@tzacher, no heating/movement of electricity will occur unless the circuit is closed. This is a slight simplification is there is a very small leakage current from SSR, but effectively the circuit is open and nothing will happen. For safety reasons you should unplug the element or use an...