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Just look for leaks, Tighten clamps and make sure threaded fittings have enough teflon tape on them. Don't just tighten hose clamps with a screw driver. Use a small box wrench.

I sounds like your pulling air from somewhere. There's probably more resistance while your running the system, which will make the air leak more pronounced.

That's the local station here, I didn't hear them mention a homebrew contest.

I brew 10 gallons and I drink allot of beer. I don't brew in the summer so what I try to do, when I start brewing in the fall, is Drink one stash one, and keep rotating them in and try to go into summer with 25-30 gallons. (I keg everything,and have a 2 tap kegerator)

You can't just blindly add salts to your water. For example...you want to add gypsum, gypsum adds sulfate. maybe your water is already loaded with sulfate = ruined beer. Maybe go down to the brew science and poke around there awhile.

By the way, Has anyone noticed the price of Amarillo and Simcoe?? My LHBS charged me $2.75 an oz. because they were being charged more for them , which I thought was absurd, so I checked on online and that wasn't too bad...? It cost me about $35.00 for hops for this beer. Good thing I got my...

I just made a 10 gallon batch of this yesterday. It all but maxed out my system. OG was a little low at 1.080 'cause I forgot so account for smaller sparge on a big beer, It should still come in around 9% though. It's definitely ALLOT of hops. I changed a couple things, pilsner malt...

Yeah, I see a CO2 tank in the back ground. Just purge the head space. Besides, just racking over probably released enough C02 to do the job.

Being this calls for 90 IBU's and it's continually hopped for 90 mins. how is everyone calculating the IBU's? Just calculate all hops for a 60 min. boil and leave it at that? (I'm Using Beersmith) Thanks.

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I use one in my RIMS and find it VERY useful for detecting a stuck mash/sparge. I condition the malt and recirculate during the whole mash and usually don't have any trouble unless there is allot of flakes of some sort in the recipe. I can tell it's starting to stick when the needle starts...

Does your refractometer have both Brix and SG ? I remember reading that the SG scale is not accurate. Try just the Brix and use a spread sheet of some sort for conversion. I use the spread sheet from moorebeer and it always agrees with my Hydrometer when I check it.

I don't have a conical, but I think 3/8" is way too small and will get clogged easily.

Are you using A March or chugger pump? I have one of each, (and a little giant) and have never had that happen, even with a stuck sparge or shutting off the inlet valve.

Maybe the needle is bent and hitting the dial? If it is, GENTLY bend it out. Otherwise, new gauge time.

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I bought THIS one years ago. I even dropped it and had to super glue it back together and it's allways dead on! (I check it against a hydrometer). Just use a brix converter like acidrain mentioned. I use the one from Morebeer and even during fermentation, it's accurate.

The probe is not waterproof. Don't put it in water.

Allot of my lids don't fit tight and have little- no airlock activity. CO2 is heavier than air and will sit on top of the beer protecting it as long as you don't keep opening it up to take samples etc..

Just take a razor knife and put cuts in the edge of the lid every 6" or so, it'll pry right off and the O ring will keep it sealed. +100 on getting a 6.5 gallon fermenter for 5 gallon batches.