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That's why I switched to camlocks. They have a bigger bore and are less restrictive.

+1 on cam locks and silicone tubing. I would also build a small platform to elevate your burners and kettles off the ground, it will make draining, pumping, stirring, way easier. Do those barb fittings on your pump have plastic threaded fittings? If so, will they withstand boiling temps?

Whiskey malt is just 6 row with a higher Diastatic power for converting adjuncts. (around 200 I believe)

Dry hopped beers are hazy because of the hop oils released. Water & Oil don't mix.....

I have a wooden stick that I use and just used a sharpie, It's been a few years and it's still fine.

I never heard it called Baytucky, There are some hicks here though.

This is similar to what I do except, Knowing the temp. of the beer (cold crashed or not) and the volumes of Co2 needed at that temp. I'll put 30 LBS. on it and shake or roll for 10-15 mins. Then I'll shut off the valve for the Co2 tank and continue to shake. First the high pressure gauge will...

I have a direct fire rims and recirculate the whole time and stir throughout the mash. MY theory is it keeps heat/ enzymes evenly dispersed throughout the mash. I also stir the top few inches during fly sparge (after bed is fairly established) to make sure there is no channeling going on. I...

I have a semi automated RiMs which recirculates the whole mash. I have a probe fitting in the MLT and one in a TEE at the pump. The only difference is the one at the pump is where my Temp controller probe is.

Are you using pipe wrenches? They need to be pretty tight. Also check the fittings, I've seen hairline cracks on tees etc..that spread the tighter you make them, or even a bad casting.

The probe fitting is definitely the way to go. I just ordered one of THEESE Because I'm tired of replacing cheapies, Though they're not so cheap after ya replace a bunch of them. I like the remote probe 'cause I can hang it up and set alarms ETC. and use it for other projects.

You shouldn't need oil! Use the Kung Fu Grip on it. It'll come off! Maybe a fast rap against the wrench with a hammer. Don't forget to relieve the the pressure.

I hope they appreciated your beer. I hate giving beer to people say "that was pretty good" then go slober down Coors Light. LOL

I think malted corn has a DP of 35-40 which is enough to self convert. You can also add some alpha amylase to it to be sure. I'm pretty sure you could add amylase to flaked corn at 140 or so degrees and convert that. I'm pretty sure it will ferment out 100% and taste like a dry white wine...

I have THIS one. It's heavy duty and fits tight. I could never imagine it moving. Looking at the picture it seems they improved it by putting more slots in it. The only drawback to it is there's 2 gallons under it, which really doesn't affect me 'cause I use a bottom drain. I condition my...

What people are doing is mixing the TSP and Oxyclean to make a Pseudo PBW cleaner. The ratio I see is 70/30 Oxy to TSP. Try 1 oz. Per gallon. Also it works best in warm water. I circulate it through my plate chiller at 120 degrees while I'm cleaning up.

Here's mine. It Runs on natural gas. The MLT has a bottom drain and the temperature is controlled with a Ranco ETC. The HLT and Boil is controlled manually.

I guessed that you used Whirlflock just by looking at all that cold break. That's what it does.

Belgian triple as your first AG? NICE. That residue is just cold break. (Did you use whirlflock?) It'll all settle out eventually and won't affect flavor at all. If you used enough yeast and aerated enough, you should see fermentation in 6-12 hours. Gratz.....

I JUST got 2 Stainless Perlicks. They are replacing 2 regular chromed faucets which I never had a problem with. I was up in the air about getting chrome ones too, being I never had problems with the ones I had, but figured I'd get the SS and won't be sorry later that I didn't. The best price I...