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Hey all, up for sale is my 10 gallon system. It’s a direct-fire 3 vessel keggle setup with older Blichmann burners & stainless chugger pump. Each kettle has sight glass, dip tube, thermometer, and cam lock disconnects. Mash tun has a folding false bottom screen, MLT & BK both have recirculating...

Here's my kettle-RIMS setup. 2nd time using it today. It's 2 15 gallon pots, dual pump, got a brundog inspired condenser, a stainless counterflow chiller, and an Auber 'BIAB' controller for brains. There are a couple modifications I still want to make, but so far I'm really digging it!

Yeah, counter flow chillers are slower in that regard than immersion. I highly recommend getting it as low as you can after whirlpool and a single pass then letting your fermentation chamber do the rest of the hard work instead of sending so much water down the drain.

Are you trying to cool the whole kettle, or knocking down to a target wort leaving temp? I get down to under 90 with a 5 minute whirlpool through the chiller at full speed, then dropping the flow pretty low and rack right to the fermentor at 85-89 degrees.

Yeah, same one I've got. I've found though that if I turn down the flow rate of the wort I can get it sub 90 degrees on a single pass which is fine for me. I just get it into the fermentor at ~90 degrees and let my fermentation chamber (freezer) drop it the rest of the way to pitching temp.

edit: double post. Oops

That looks like the Stout Tanks Counterflow. I've got the same one.

The 20 gallon boil coil only comes in 240 volt. It should be pulling 19 amps at full power. If you're concerned about it not drawing enough juice I'd suggest checking the amp draw with a clamp multimeter. What are you using to control the element?

Bonus cool guy points if instead of the blank off plate you add a butterfly valve, then a 6" straight section (or even a sight glass) with the cap on top of that. Then you could load up the upcoming hop addition ahead of time and just open the valve when it's time. Then you can put it on an...

If you wanted to get fancy you could throw a 3" tri clamp fitting on the lid, then put a 3" T on it with a block off plate on the top and attach the condenser on the side port via a step-down. This would allow you to open the blank off port for hop additions or hydrometer samples without needing...

If the liquid level is higher than the top of the port it will not work because there would be no pathway for the steam. The amount of water generated will be equal to boil off plus the 6 or 9 gallons per hour generated by the sprayer

Interesting, never heard that. I'm curious though, how does that affect installing the feed? Generally you run the 10/4 to the panel, but once inside you have to cut back the black insulation and run the individual wires to their respective destinations right?

This is why you just buy a spool of white 14 gauge and a box of those multicolored electrical tapes. For the 10 I just bought a length of 10-4 and stripped part of it down for components.

I don’t think the straight 5500s are ULWD, I think they are LWD though. See if you can find something like this. The same wattage with a larger amount of surface area is what brings down the watt density https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500_ripple.htm

What chiller are you using? Seems like we’re building similar setups just I’m usin a K-RIMS instead of a traditional one. Just wired up my Auber panel too only change is I had them sub out the pump buttons and the switches for all illuminated toggle switches. My biggest struggle right now is...

3k should be fine for 20 liter batches, but it would be undersized for larger ones should you decide to take advantage of your larger kettle from time to time. My best advice would be to use the largest ULWD element you can find that will work with your equipment. There is no risk of scorching...

Yeah, they're offering a very good deal. If I had waited a couple months to put together my system I probably would have ended up getting this. I'm pretty stoked on my 2 vessel system but I love seeing all the electric options that are coming to market, it's making electric much more accessible...

FWIW, after looking at the specs for the chiller on the website it looks to me to be either this chiller or one very similar. I just received one of these (haven't had a chance to use it yet) and it's a beast. If this is the chiller that Grounded is offering for $200 it's a great deal because...

So stoked! Electric brewery is almost done

Check out brewhardware, they have a pre-made assembly for converting kegs to bottom drain. you cou'd buy one or use it as a template to make your own I'm sure