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I tried the universal poppet valves. They work OK but not as well as the originals.

Unless the package states it's an insulator you have to assume it's conductive. Also, most epoxy's may not start out conductive but they will become conductive as they absorb water. The only way to guarantee you won't have a problem is to use something like this...

Mine has a 6' pigtail and it works great. I also wrap the cord around the pot and hook the plug-end under one of the handles when I wash the pot.

Just as a reference, I run my phase angle controller full-on to bring my batch up to full boil then I turn the knob down to a slow steady boil. I need to slightly adjust the knob on my controller maybe twice after the initial setting during a 1.5 hour boil. I though about doing PWM because my...

Yes they have because PWM or phase angle both drop the surface temperature of the element when you turn them down.

I wonder if the heat sink is large enough for 40 Amps? 40 Amps through a SSR dissipates about 40 watts of heat & that's quite a bit for the heat sink I saw on the Amazon listing without a fan blowing across for cooling.

The MYPIN controller works great for mash control but not for boil control. A good solution is a phase angle controller like the one www.stilldragon.com sells as a kit or the one www.kegkits.com sells complete.

Personally, I like the dial. I can turn it full on until I reach boil then watch the boil as I adjust the dial to exactly where I want it to be. There is nothing simpler. Also, I tried boiling with my PID just to see how it would work and it did not reach boil as fast as my SSVR did. The PID...

I use one to control my boil kettle and it works great. I started to go the AUBER route then I realized that setting the boil through the PID control panel was going to be more trouble than it's worth. With a SSVR I start with the knob set full-on then I just turn down the heat when the boil...

Great project - what model PIDs did you use and what size pipe did you use?

All of the stainless steel elements still have zinc plated steel threaded ends. The best solution is to drain and dry out the kettle when you aren't using it.

I believe I'd clamp a wire to the handle before I'd drill a second hole and possibly cause a leak.

Has anyone bought one of these? Do they work?

I agree with you. We don't have the extreme cold in the South East like you do in the North East but we get extreme humid heat in July August. A electric setup in the garage with a good exhaust vent is the way to go!

In case anyone still reads this, www.kegkits.com BBB rating is back up to an A+. http://www.bbb.org/northern-alabama/business-reviews/beer-home-brewing-equipment-and-supplies/tom-hargrave-sales-in-huntsville-al-900050886

It good to see that a failing company can be turned around, even in today's economy.

Do you have a picture of the controller you are using? Or do you have a link to the controller?