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Once there was water in there it would always be in there. More than likely something is expanding when it gets hot & it touching something else.

Here's a youtube video I found of water boiling. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sokd1rD-LPY And for comparison here's a youtube video I found of wurt boiling. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6DCg2chxuM

Digikey sells SSRs starting at $31.51. http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/G3NA-225B%20DC5-24/Z921-ND/206392 Here's a better one for $45.33. http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/D2440/CC1071-ND/221764

Problem with using the alarm output is the relay will open when the alarm trips then it will close and the power will be turned back on when the pot cools. So, until you get home and manually turn the system off your pot will stay at the higher alarm temperature. The contents left over in the...

Don't try this one with a light dimmer from Lowes or Home Depot. They aren't rated for the current your element draws and they aren't PWM.

You need to wire in a thermal overload switch that will disconnect power regardless of the failure. Something like this but rated at 20 Amps, this one's only 15 Amps. http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=68C2874

Not having the A-M light tells me you have one without the manual mode option but the picture on the web site clearly shows the A-M light. You have the wrong part.

It's easy to do with electric because you don't have gas flames to contend with.

Your dryer and stove run without GFI, so does your water heater if it's electric and all three mix water and electricity.

Astringency = tannins and tannins tells me that you are over sparging. You need to cut your sparge off sooner than you are and you should be fine.

I was looking on the Automation Direct web site. Which touch panel are you using? http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Operator_Interfaces/

If the dryer is 3 prong then you can only use a 3 prong dryer plug for your EBIAB system. If you want to use 4 wire for your EBIAB you will need to upgrade the cable coming from your main panel to the dryer, the dryer outlet and the dryer plug to 4 wire.

I looked at their BBB rating and they are listed as A+ http://www.bbb.org/northern-alabama/business-reviews/beer-home-brewing-equipment-and-supplies/tom-hargrave-sales-in-huntsville-al-900050886 Is this the same company?

How can a pot that's pretty much one piece of stainless be "about 60-70% US content?"

Looks like you have everything covered but I'd go with a new vent hood. They are cheap enough from LOWES and Home Depot and with the new you get a new blower motor.

The element has straight threads & the welding spud has female pipe thread. Most of the time it's a non-issue but it looks like this time the tolerance stack-up caught up with you.

I found the eBay part. http://www.ebay.com/itm/10000W-220V-SCR-Voltage-Regulator-Motor-Speed-Control-Controller-Governor-Dimmer-/390653154736?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af4be15b0

There was one on eBay but I don't know how well they work.

Since you have both in one setup please let us know which one you like best for boil.

I cut my shelf supports off and covered the holes up with silver dictwork tape, the stuff the AC guys use to tape ducts together.