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WY1728 is a great choice. I just saw that the OP only has access to dried yeast. I don't know if there is anything out there in dried form that approaches the characteristics of the 1728. I'm still going to say ditch the Munich unless like your example you are trying to stimulate the senses of...

Very much agree with DBhomebrew here. That recipe is way over complicated for the style. The Special-B, certainly at 4+% is out of place. If you're going to use crystal use UK malt not North American and the Munich also seems superfluous. Ditch the Special-B along with the Munich (replace...

I don't think there is. You will get some bitterness from the later addition but its main purpose is for flavor and some aroma enhancement. Putting enough hops in the late addition to create a large amount of the beer's IBUs is going to unbalance the flavor profile IMO. Don't lock yourself...

The majority of the IBUs will and should come from the longer 60 minute boil addition. The 20 minute addition will be mostly for flavor but contribute some IBU and aroma too. I don't know what the exact percentages might be but I'd guess about 75% or more from the 60 minute addition.

What are the base ion numbers in your raw water? IMO there is no need for all that sulphate in a Kolsch.

I'm not talking about "lite" beer but "light" as in the style, a North American Light Lager which is what the standard Gansett was. The old Porter, which I also drank a bit of back in the old days, was more or less the standard beer with "Porterene" added. That was a commercially used beer...

Not to throw cold water on your project but it is extremely difficult to "clone" any of the older, American regional light lagers. For one thing specific information on hops and yeast strain are almost impossible to find as well as the exact grist bill. FWIW I drank my share of Gansett way back...

Re 1): In theory yes, but in reality it depends on how efficient a system it is and how well it has been maintained. Re 2): Yes, Ward Labs, Test #W-501 Water Analysis - Ward Laboratories, Inc. Re 3): until you know what is in your water you will not know what adjustments are required. See #2...

They are local only but for something small like hop packets maybe they can work something out. Talk with Charlie. https://www.blackstonevalleybrewing.com/ I have ordered hops several times over the years from Grape and Granary in Ohio. They are a good company. https://www.grapeandgranary.com/

Can't help you with online suppliers, I use my LHBS who keeps a good variety on hand. Here is a list of UK types with quick descriptions if that is of any use. https://www.britishhops.org.uk/varieties/

Cornstarch is ready to go as is. The easiest way to use it is to mix with the dry crushed grain before adding the strike water. Once the water hits the grist the cornstarch will liquefy almost immediately.

Never heard of that and at first thought it sounds counterproductive. It's the husks from barley malt that acts as a medium to allow the flow and drainage of liquid in the mash. If you layer all the sticky flaked grains it seems there is a possibility of creating an entire sticky layer or at...

I'd say it's a safe assumption that 2 lb amount is a misprint or an editing error. Almost any book is going to have an error or two. Another safe assumption is that the book's editor probably knew next to nothing about brewing beer so an incorrect number like that would have gone right by...

PTFE ("Teflon") thread sealing tape would be fine. The material has a usable temperature range that is well beyond the boiling point, up to 287C/550F. In the US where I am you would buy tape with an FDA 21 compliance which indicates it is acceptable for food contact.

Re hops I'd suggest adding some to the full 120 length of the boil. Perhaps reduce the Challenger @ 60 minutes by 30g and add 45g of Goldings to the 120 minute time.

Very high OG beers don't necessarily behave the same way as normal strength beers. This is something to keep in mind regarding both the process and the recipe. Your typical efficiency will be lower and the beer's FG will be higher than regular strength beer. These beers can also take longer...

As with any lager, pay attention to the details. Keep an eye on your temperatures from the mash, to fermentation, and on to lagering. Don't cheat on ingredients. Buy qualtity German malts and use an appropriate yeast.

This in one of my favorite beers. I like the old style, darker Marzen over the more modern and lighter Festbier. Here is my basic outline to get started: 60% German dark Munich (10-12L) 20% German Vienna (3-4L) 20% German Pilsner Use your favorite German noble hop in two additions, one for...

No Problem at all. I am not familiar with Hallertau Blanc but if they have good flavor & aroma properties that does not prevent them from being used as bittering hops. While bittering hop additions are not a primary source of flavor & aroma they still will show their presence in the final...

Star-San comes in a plastic (polyethylene) bottle. Plastic used for brew buckets, fermenters, and the like are also polyethylene. There are many different types of plastic but the ones used commonly in homebrewing are just fine with Star-San.