Search results

Yeah, full 90 min boil. Driving me crazy that I can't seem to figure out what it is.

Pot doesn't show signs of scorching and given its been the same both times when buying the malt a year apart it doesn't seem a malt mixup is likely. Guess I'd rather deal with the color rather than DMS due to a lack of vigorous boil though.

Using dingemans pilsner malt and have brewed this recipe 2x with nearly the same color as a result. Also I use gelatin so the beer is crystal clear. How does Duvel get is so light if that is what pilsner malt looks like after 90min boil? I know they have a vastly different mashing routine but...

I am judging color based on hydrometer and glass samples, not Carboy. I have not had my water tested but I do use those ph strips in the mash and it looks ok. Not sure how accurate those are.

Use a thermopen that is spot on for temp. If the water was off the gravity would be off too but it hasn't been.

I have never noticed any scorched spots on the bottom of the pot.

It's also about 8.5 percent so very similar to Duvel.

Beersmith predicts its going to be almost clear (like a Duvel) but its really about the color of pale ale like sierrra Nevada.

So in have seen a few threads say that extract beers tends to come out darker but nothing on AG. I think my beers usually come out a bit darker (but still good) but its very noticeable in lighter beers like a blonde or BGS. For example my BGS is nothing but pilsner malt and sugar. I added the...

Update, after oh I guess about 7 months now, the beer is carbed! Thanks everyone who convinced me to wait it out.

I guess that's the point, you don't find out if you have a problem until its already in the fermenter. Guess then its too late to make a simple correction and now you have to live with it or make a addition/dilution after cooled. I suspect that most of us are not this consistent and are willing...

Haha. I tend to wait until the wort is cooled down and then do it with sanitized hands!

I lose 2-2.5 gal/hr but my kettle is very wide. Measure originally volume and final volume w/o chiller, preferably at similar temp. I squeeze my hop bags so they don't take too much. If you are way high in OG you might consider adding water bit I would have done that before fermentation started.

A few clarifications, the beer has some carb so not completely flat and I used the same belgian strain that got it to the FG just fine (pitched fresh yeast). If I were to try the champagne route, do I need to dump everything into a bucket and mix? seems that this would end up being oxygenated...

This is encouraging. I will forget about the until late fall and see it that helps before doing anything. Is there a way to tell if its a capping issue? I have shaken the bottles periodically and didn't get any leakage but that may not mean anything.

As fat as champaign test, wouldn't I risk overattenuation? The FG was about 1.017.

I didn't forget the priming sugar. Guess I will wait another few months and hope for the best before disturbing them. The beer tastes great so I would be thrilled if it would just carb without having to mess with it.

Also, I was considering trying something like pouring the bottles out into a bucket and draining into a keg for force carbing. I could try to do this under a blanket of CO2 but not sure I can avoid oxidation. I hoped to age this beer for several years and was very careful to avoid oxygenation so...

I bottled an Belgian Dark Strong (10.5% ABV) back in march and it is still not very carbed. I know that there are issues with yeast and these high gravity beers carbing up so I made sure to repitch fresh belgian yeast when I bottled. Now here I am 4 months later and although I can see yeast in...

Congrats, hope you took good notes and can repeat the brew!