Big thank you to RandR+ for all the help with the digital tap list and flow meters. Here’s the final product. Only took 3 years to get it completely COMPLETE! Haha
I am in the process of building a 4” TC attachment that will include a stainless steel coil, dip tube, blow off post and a thermowell for temp controlled fermentation in a kegmenter (with a 4”TC opening that is). I will post when it is complete
I am about a week away from developing a 4” lid for the kegmenter that will have a stainless coil, thermowell, dip tube and blowoff post so you can do temp controlled fermentation in the kegmenter.
I use hese with 3/8 silicone washers. Super clean. Work great.
US $6.90 | 2Pcs 6mm Hose Barb Tail To 3/8" Inch BSP Female Thread Connector Joint Pipe Fitting SS 304 Stainless Steel Coupler Adapter
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/Lulng9Yk
Here’s the update:
Morebeer was awesome with the replacement. Shipped it out fedex very fast. New unit put together and all is good.
BUT....
I got to brew 2 batches on it and the “S” button on the STC-1000 broke. so I couldn’t change the temp of the glycol. I troubleshot it for a couple days...
Yes. Here’s the update:
More beer was awesome with the replacement. Shipped it out fedex very fast. New unit put together and all is good.
BUT....
I got to brew 2 batches on it and the “S” button on the STC-1000 broke. so I couldn’t change the temp of the glycol. I troubleshot it for a...
I’m No expert, but mine weren’t working/registering until I set the pulses in the tap menu (last column). My pulses are set to 19200 but some have them set as low as 700. Could be something that simple (or as simple as your wiring).
Using R+ with SF800s
Agreed. But there was no way around those. Aside from all stainless ball locks. Just trying to do everything I can to minimize plastic and thread tape. Are John guest considered food safe?
Haha. I know they are well engineered. But I just hate plastic parts touchin my beer. Call me spoiled but stainless or bust. Stainless is stainless whether it’s Chinese’s or not (psssst: ITS ALL CHINESE THESE DAYS!)
In my opinion John guest fittings are junk. I also try to minimize the amount of plastic parts I use in my brewery. I just hooked up my Swissies and used these parts instead:
US $6.90 | 2Pcs 6mm Hose Barb Tail To 3/8" Inch BSP Female Thread Connector Joint Pipe Fitting SS 304 Stainless Steel...
My Icemaster 100 just **** the bed after 6 months of use (7 brews) What are your thoughts?:
Process was typicaly the same for every batch:
When in use:
Fermentation: Set glycol to 32 degrees to keep tank at ferm temps (62-72) for 10-15 days
Cold crashing: Set glycol to 25 degrees to keep tank...
My Icemaster 100 just **** the bed after 6 months of use (7 brews) What are your thoughts?:
Process was typicaly the same for every batch:
When in use:
Fermentation: Set glycol to 32 degrees to keep tank at ferm temps (62-72) for 10-15 days
Cold crashing: Set glycol to 25 degrees to keep tank...
My Icemaster 100 just **** the bed after 6 months of use (7 brews) What are your thoughts?:
Process was typicaly the same for every batch:
When in use:
Fermentation: Set glycol to 32 degrees to keep tank at ferm temps (62-72) for 10-15 days
Cold crashing: Set glycol to 25 degrees to keep tank...
I’m about to get everything wired up. Does anyone see anything wrong with using stainless barb connectors instead of the John guest connectors?
I was thinking metal on plastic treads might be a no-no but I just don’t like the John guest fittings.
This is going to be an adventure in homebrew for sure: I recently purchased 7 of the swiss flow meters. I am yet to purchase any of the other components as a lot of the ones on the raspberrypints tutorial site seem outdated. This kegerator deserves a proper digital tap board with keg level...