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Good to know, thanks!

A poor false bottom for efficiency? You mean because it may get stuck? I have a domed false bottom, similar to this...

Good to know about the recipe, it was one from the internet. I need to learn more about that.... We get our grains milled (I assume this is what you mean by crush) at the store, that'd be odd if they did a bad job? Our sparge was 3.66 gallons, mash out at 5.72, all for 5.5 gallon batch...

This is the second time I've had low efficiency with all grain. Here's the details: American Pale Ale: 8 lbs 2-row 2.5 lbs Crystal 40 0.5 lbs Carapils 0.5 oz Citra @ 55 0.5 oz Citra @ 30 0.5 oz Cascade @ 5 Mash temperature stayed at 150 whole time in water cooler (no...

Thanks for the feedback. But which one 2 to 2' or 3 to 3' is the wiring to illuminate the light?

I could be overly paranoid, but this one is different/cheap. It starts at 2 and 3 (skips 1). Think it is simple as 1 to 1 and 2 to 2? Would the 1 to 1 be what illuminates the toggle?

Hate to ask what I assume is an easy question: I have kcd4 toggle switches for my control panel. They illuminate. No instructions, no diagrams. Google is useless. Just has a 2 and a 3 next to two of the pins. How do I wire this up? I need one circuit to illuminate it, and the other...

So, I'm about 1/2 through wiring up the new electric brewery. I'm working on the PID, which is a TA4-SSR. I have Auber RTD Probes and will be attaching one to each of my 3 PIDs. Looking at the diagram (attached), I need to wire my lone white wire to 7, and my two red wires to 8 & 9...

In trying to be DYI in electric brewing, I'm creating my own control panel. I'm modifying a plan that I believe is a popular one on Instructables: http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Brewery-Control-Panel-on-the-Cheap/?ALLSTEPS Looking at the wiring diagram (attached), it's a 220v...

Pretty straight forward, we had a beer lager at 34 degrees for 2 months, bottled it, opened it (tastes great), but flat. Opened one after the first week, 2nd one after two weeks. I believe we should have added yeast before bottling. We added a tablespoon of the bottom slurry, but maybe...

Thats interesting...I've thought about that, but I'm already having to fill the HLT with a lot of water for the HERMS. But if I split the water between the HLT and the BK for the sparge and mash water, then I guess I wouldn't need to worry about not having enough water in the HLT for the HERMS...

I'm about a week away from ordering all my parts for the HLT and the BK. I have 25 gallon pots that I'm going to convert. The question now is to go with weldless or soldering? Brewhardware sells both weldless and soldering (not welding) conversions. The soldering version is $65, while the...

That makes perfect sense. Thanks for the explanation!

I was planning on using a 50A breaker that would feed into the control panel. I would then have two 30A receptacles for the two elements in the HLT (in parallel) and one 30A receptacle for the BK. It makes sense to also have the SSR in parallel for the HLT elements.

But at that point, how are you measuring the amount of water you put into the MT? Are you measuring the change from the HLT?

Sounds like we're good for the 50amp breaker. I'll be sure to use the 6awg. I tend to like both my house and my life, so not going to destroy either of those... The plan was to modify this control panel build a little...

That is really cool and informative! Thank you for the link! Is there an advantage to doing that over installing a sight glass?

Makes sense. I have a friend who is an electrician. I'm going to install a 50A breaker and see what happens.

I guess I didn't write that well. I was trying to say that it makes sense to use the water from the HLT for the sparge water. What doesn't seem to be clear is to know how much water you've poured into the MT to do the initial mash. What you wrote makes sense, I need to put the water in...

Couldn't I install a 50A circuit instead? That'd probably be cheaper than two 30A circuits.