Search results

Under the conditions you described definitely crack open after 2 (or even after 1, actually...) and see how it is progressing. If it is carbed, put those bottles in the fridge immediately if you can, this will help in slowing down oxidation. I find that also my bottle conditioned IPA/NEIPA do...

Yes, IMHO this would only be a very minor problem compared to the oxidation potential and, to a minor extent, dry hop debris that may have ended up in your bottles (I don't know if this was the case). Dry hop particles can create nucleation points for CO2 that may cause bottle gushers upon...

I bottle, I dry hop loose and I do not cold crash. So I'd say I'm in a very similar starting situation as you. Usually by the time I bottle, I've got most of the hops settled at the bottom, but with some significant portion still floating on top. During the transfer I try to keep the tip of the...

If I remember correctly several people on the German homebrewing forum were actually using it for making yeast starters :-)

Yes I was primarily referring to very hop forward styles, NEIPA of course but also west coast IPA. Also for a modern WCIPA I do not think you are going to get anywhere near the hop character you want without a dry hopping step. But I fully agree with you that for more subtle, less heavily hopped...

I don't think you did anything wrong. I believe there is a large consensus by now that there is no way you are going to get even close to the character imparted by dry hopping when doing only hot-side attitions, no matter how big you go and at what temperature. I'm personally still doing...

In addition to what has been already stated here, I read that higher pH, both during the boil as well as in the finished product, can lead to a darker beer color. It is very anecdotal but I have a feeling that the color of my beers has lightened significantly since I started controlling pH in a...

To continue in a somewhat heavy metal vein...I'm a hopeless fan of dark and (for the most part) scandinavian music, and recently got into this one other norwegian genius of such tunes...

When you have developed your own technique for brewing black tea, namely: - toss the tea loose in a glass pitcher (please do NOT bag those tea leaves, ever!! They MUST go in commando) - pour boiling water on top of them - wait a couple of minutes while occasionally stirring (= tea-stand) -...

Thanks! Yes, unfortunately no mention of a "sufficient quantity". I'd like to reduce too, because 1 gram/gal does seem a lot to me as well. However, for this one time a year I'm brewing a NEIPA with lots of $$ in hops I want to maximize its chances of success, so I'll probably continue with that...

Being one of these couple people, I would relativize the "stellar" for my part and for the time being. It seemed to work well, yes, but I was also implementing other measures to limit the impact of O2 at the same time. What speaks for the ascorbic acid, besides the NEIPA turning out really good...

FWIW I used about 1 gram/gallon as per @tyrub42 's original suggestion in one of the above mentioned threads. It seemed to work really well for me. No flavor impact whatsoever that I could detect. Also no noticeable effect on beer pH (it's probably too weak of an acid to have a significant...

Thanks a lot!! Most of these I already came across, but a couple I did not find yet, and are surely worth exploring. Cheers!

I understood that. I was just saying that the big boys do something similar, but on the basis of fully carbed beer. They apparently inject a high pressure, very brief and very thin burst of deox water, which makes the beer foam up. Then they cap on foam.

I wouldn't put much emphasis on the reckless "splashing technique " for the time being... For one, this would make the "closed transfer to keg" guys totally freak out, and we poor bottlers would definitely lose all credibility (rightly so, probably). Second, I succeeded at that "technique "...

Could you point me to that thread or post you mentioned? I would be very interested to see it. Not questioning the logic behind it (seems logic to me as well, and also the big guys utilize this trick of making the beer foam up when bottling, so they surely have their good reasons). But I would...

Thing is, in my case I do not have to wait even 10 seconds to seal the bottle. I can seal it literally immediately after the purging burst, because I use swing tops. However, also folks using crown caps seem to report success using this method, so I guess it works also if you delay the sealing a...

I think in the specific case of purging headspaces, the way it works has more to do with displacement of air by the flow of CO2 rather than stratification. You give a burst of CO2 into the neck of the bottle and that forces most of the air out. I also believe you should cap immediately, or at...

Yes that's the thing. In a proper hoppy beer you would throw way more hops in the kettle than you would in an amber, right? The huge late hop additions bear the potential to extract significantly more bitterness. And if the wort pH is too high, it will extract more of the "harsher" type...

I'm also having a strong feeling that the major issue here must be somehow water-related. Otherwise I find it difficult to explain how it can turn out with "almost no hop flavor" despite large hot- and cold-side additions.... and no evident darkening that would point to major oxidation issues...