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Nice link Orfy, thanks....But i feel 100% confident about this pump after speaking w/ JP. We actually sent him the link to the exact pump and spoke in person about it at the KCBM comp. last month.....thanks again...

should work shouldnt it? Ive been speaking on and off w/ John Palmer about the bronze housing and he said go for it. The only reason he didnt write about bronze in his book is because bronze is a more expensive alloy. But would work great in the homebrew world!

heres the design for the HLT. We have not tested it yet. The tank is currently getting a bottom skirt and fittings welded into it. Then i still need to wire in the 240v stuff into my main panel. The pump can be used for solar heat, geothermals, hydrolic heat, or domestic hot water recirculating...

Heres our thought on the 85g HLT were building. If you put the elements in the water bath, you will get lots of cold/hot spots. This makes temp. control difficult. You would then need to recir the water somehow and thermocouple or thermo placement would need to be placed after it gets...

JP says you get better lautering w/ the slots on the bottom.....Sure is pretty! If you fly sparge w/ it you might wanna add 2 more pipes in the center...

I use 3/8 and it works just fine. My buddy uses 1/2 and our times are pretty much equal. The thing to remember is 3/8 has less volume, but transfers heat quicker, while 1/2 has more volume. So what we have found is the 1/2 needs to be throttled back a little more to slow down the speed. Both...

I sell Thermowells that are SS TIG welded that are of excellent quality and craftsman ship. They can be used in all different types of stoppers, or you can add a 3/8 compression to 1/2 npt fitting and use them as a weldless version. These thermowells are of higher quality than the stopper...

These are double jacketed. The cone jacket is seperate from the body. We have the jackets looped togther on each conical. The main run from the gycol chiller is "T"ed w/ a solenoid in front of each conical. A conical needs some lovin' that solenoid kicks in. This way each conical can be set at...

Nope. Not at all. They work awesome. Heres a link to co2 racking that i do for going to secondary. I just setup a solid stopper that i drilled 2 holes into 1 for a thermowell, the other an airlock. Then when i rack, i remove those things and replace them w/ a racking cane and a short peice of...

Yea, those are nice setups for sure..... Heres our other conicals..we have 2 of these....double jacketed!

We buy these barrels from a guy in Iowa when we get our annual ball lock order. They are just like the USPlastics 14g open head nestables, but since we buy in bulk, the money is cheaper. Shipping is a little high from USPlastics. I still have some 4-sale, but the ones i have left have a few...

I own one. Daym glad all i have in it is 225 bucks. Built mine from a TMS cone and lid. Same company as Blichmann and others use, just in case some didnt know that.... Pluses... 1. They are cool to look at. 2. You get 1 volume to pitch into instead of multiple fermentors. 3. Easy to clean and...

I dont have any updated pics, but here is some equipment when we dragged them in. They currently are setup in my shop, cleaned, and ready for TC SS plumbing and some electronics....were gonna fly sparge this with a contiunes bottom fired mash using whirlcool chilling... 2 100gallon SS tanks...

Laughing at the new guy on the block was to be expected. But youve never seen or brewed on my setup(s) so so im sure you cant mock it. Ive wasted many hours on other forums on this subject, so i had to throw in some jabs here too. But for real, ive got other things to worry about, like getting...

This is a man talking out of INexperience.......next time your in KS. stop by for a beer and i will show you a fly sparge system that defeats most everything you just said..

Oh, but if batch sparging is so much faster, that will never happen...

Excellent. Thats what its all about. If you need anymore questions answered, just holler! I think you can get rid of your holding cooler and go straight to kettle. Put fire under the kettle as soon as your 1st batch sparge hits it. That will help save alot of time....Good to see you thinking...

I hear ya!

Let me know how it worked out for you. When i did this i was using a 10g rubbermaid w/FB. Didnt effect my eff. one bit from the stirring, multiple vorlaugh technique.

This thread just got worthless.