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Ah so you are spunding prior to DHing. I'm always worried about racking fully carbed beer to the serving keg. I know it should be fine with a counter pressure fill but sounds like it could go south easily.

I always have my DH addition vacuum sealed and usually open it seconds before I open the lid...do you see any benefit to using nitro in that scenario? I use Bev tubing to attach to my spigot but I do suspect that not clamping that is a potential issue... especially since my NEIPA closed...

I get no color change at all, just a change from fresh hop flavor to more of that old west coast IPA hop flavor.

So has anybody tried creating a priming solution starter with the CBC-1 and pitching that in for krausening? That seems like it could work. Get a fast flavor neutral fermentation/carbonation while cleaning up diacetyl.

cool, that's exactly what I do anyway

This is kind of what I was hoping for by ditching spunding for NEIPAs but so far I've had 3 batches that had oxidized hop flavors rather quickly. I use fermonsters with modded lids and spigots...don't open the lid at all except when quickly adding the dry hops and then purge headspace using the...

it's definitely oxidation...only difference in procedure is later dry hopping (but I do so quickly and purge headspace afterwards) and force carbing. I blame the force carbing...yes it's not much O2 but when you pump that much into your beer to carbonate it you will end up with enough to change...

I'm at a bit of a crossroads with NEIPAs. Since moving to spunding all my beers, the NEIPA is the most difficult beer to pull off. When spunding it's a race against the clock. My NEIPAs typically ferment out in 4-5 days so I'd be spunding on day 3 or 4. That doesn't leave much time to dry...

what was that again? Too hard to find anything in this thread these days. So without knowing the malt contributions, is the other post more realistic as a water target?

Are you referring to taking measurements before spunding or to determine if it's finished? If the latter, you go by pressure as long as your valve is not leaking. If the former, you take a hydrometer or adjusted refractometer reading and use that and the fft to determine timing of the spund

Definitely unnecessary and will do more harm than good. If I were you I would bottle straight out of the primary if possible

Indeed. I get more value out of the recipes and processes detailed in their articles than the results.

Oxygen stalls everything thus why it should be avoided at all cost on the cold side

You're not. It just may not bother you much

Interesting. No issues with it sucking co2 from above the liquid line with that method? I don't use those in my fermenter but rather the keg

What do you mean by cutting slits? I cut a slit in the tubing toward the end where the diptube is

You tested at 20psi and everything held up? I have a very similar setup (except use a spigot for liquid out) and am always concerned about the lid breaking at that pressure or worse the fermenter itself cracking. I've tested up to 10 temporarily successfully but I'm to chicken to go higher

There's a balance between o2 scavenging and CO2 scrubbing though.

mmmm King Arthur flour... :no:

I think this is what I would do. 2 liter starter and pitch half of it at high krausen and let the other half finish out to store for the next batch.