Search results

Thanks for the explanation. Helps to understand it. However, it seems like this would negatively impact the gravity of the first run and bring it's gravity down, due to the sparge not collecting as much sugar. So I guess the question i still have would be, what would is the approximate...

Got it thanks for the info. What about option 3? Any more efficient than option 1? Ultimately I'm trying to figure out which profile to select in BS2 for my Igloo water cooler MLT...

I'm trying to figure out which would result in the more efficient (gravity wise) mash/mash out/sparge... Mash for 60 minutes @ 156*, then: 1. Lauter and completely drain first runs, add sparge water to grain bed to reach 168*, wait 20 minutes and lauter/mash out. 2. Add boiling water to raise...

Picked up the Milwaukee...in regards to a pH meter, I'm in the market for one, but anything near the $100 pricepoint seems to be finnicky at best. Any recommendations?

any further insight? looking to purchase.

anyone still using these with success a year later?

Thanks for the insight and link. I'm on a municipal water supply but given everything i've read, i should take the water analysis reports with a grain of salt. is this typically the case?

So after brewing a few batches, i'm looking to start honing in on my water profiles. I've been using tap water and am trying to figure out what I need to get started. I've read about RO water and distilled water and some diy filters. I'm looking equipment advice on where to start or what to do...

Oh i let the drill rip. several inches of foam...then transfer.

so currently to aerate my wort, i use a paint mixer attached to my drill. after cooling the wort, i insert the paint mixer into my brew kettle, mix it up nice and good, then transfer via the ball valve into my carboy. Is this okay to do? Or should I be aerating it while in the carboy?

I've had great results using an immersion chiller and 3 2-liter bottles of frozen water (ice, lol) directly in the wort. You do have to take some extra care to make sure you thoroughly clean the 2-liters and sanitize them, but i've done my last 3 batches like this and am able to cool 5 gallons...

Are you able to tellme the difference between these two? http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Refractometer-Automatic-Compensation-Resolution/dp/B007Z4IN58?SubscriptionId=AKIAJ7T5BOVUVRD2EFYQ&tag=camelbrowser-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B007Z4IN58...

i have a hydrometer and am good with it and will still use. I just like the idea of having a refractometer for quick, on the fly measurements.

So I'm looking into purchasing a refractometer but as many of us like to do...i just want to purchase it once and not regret my decision later. Currently I'm eyeing these: Teika RSG32ATC-515 Ade Advanced Optics RHB-32ATC Being new to this type of equipment I wasn't sure which would be...

There seems to be numerous types available and i'm trying to figure out what to buy and where to buy. Would prefer not to make a mistake and have to rebuy later. Currently, I run a primary double gauge taprite regulator to a 3-body secondary taprite regulator with 1/4" barbs, with vinyl tubing...

Thanks

its at 45* currently as I have some stouts on tap, though they are coming off next friday. with that said though, i think the flavors come through better right off the tap than at sub 40's...at least to me.

So after some digging online I found that I should be kegging the Oberon clone I brewed so it has about 2.5 volumes of CO2. My kegerator sits at about 45* so using the calculator, I estimate I'll need to set it at about 15 PSI. Knowing that, what is the best way to have this fully carbed by...

Ah, great idea...so my current block of ice is in a 2-liter coke bottle. it was boiled and sanitized. should i just sanitize the outside real well and throw the whole thing in? maybe after an initial cooldown? so i don't risk melting the plastic?

Good to know. I just figured i'd try and get it rinsed the best as possible. oh and thanks! it's been fun! :)