Search results

I'm just going to say - from my own experience- if you use pellet hops and don't strain - be prepared with a blowoff tube.

+1 @ 71 F = 1.007

You can't judge the color accurately in the carboy - in the bottle or glass it'll appear much lighter. The reason it appeared lighter before was the suspended sediment that was reflecting light - as the beer clears it appears darker in the carboy. What's wrong with dark anyway? Don't be...

I was thinking that, too - but I'm still a NOOB so I second guess myself on everything. Measure twice, cut once ;)

I think I've just severely threatened any chance of, or aspirations of, EAC status...sigh :drunk: :D

I'm really not familiar with the Mr. Beer kits though I've heard of them. I have a guess that maybe the extract is already prehopped and the hops added to the warm mixture is for flavor and/or aroma only. You're right that you won't get any bittering effect from the hops without the boil, so...

Take the muslin bag out- once the hops have been boiled their job is through. The only time you'd leave hops in is if your 'dry hopping' (adding hops for aroma) and that is usually done in the secondary.

yeah, I know: first-ary, second-ary and third-ary does sound a bit plebeian, huh?

It sounds like you're done - but fermentation is a fickle thing... a little time never hurts on any phase of it. I wouldn't think it would go much lower, but I'd let the beer tell me when it's ready (the extra reading in a day or two).

You could - if you're certain fermentation is done. I'd leave it for a couple of more days, and take another hydro reading. If it's the same as you got already it's done - if it's dropped more, it's not yet.

first-ary, maybe? :mug:

There are two schools of thought on that - you can boil it - or, to improve hop utilization, you can add it after boiling the water and the hops (and possibly a small amt of extract - I've read some who use a lb.) and hold it at 170 F for fifteen minutes to pasteurize it. Boiling the full amt...

The book demonstrates a confusing (I think) usage of the word prime. It outlines two separate steps it calls priming - the first is a repitch of yeast in the secondary a few days prior to bottling, and the second - and more familiar usage of the term- is the addition of sugar at bottling to...

Generally speaking, ageing (or cellaring) is from the time the beer is bottled. It may be sufficiently carbonated sooner - and drinkable, but the flavors and characteristics of the beer will continue to change and improve with age up through the ideal recommended.

They say talking to plants helps them grow - why wouldn't that apply to yeasties as well? Yes, they do hear you - and they are watching!

My sympathies as well... I've had to do it before and I know it's not an easy thing. The only child thing rings true too. My son is an 'only' (SWMBO's told me my second child will be with my second wife ;) and one of our two dogs has been with him since he was 10. He's just started college and...

carb drops because they're easy - I can bottle straight from secondary.

Alright, I'm not the only one... I'm usually too preoccupied with the late addition hops and unless it's a very very light colored beer I usually don't mess with it. As for the thread topic - I know what it is (more so after reading the thread) but it holds no importance to me at this point...

Same good feelings here. I've ordered a bunch of stuff from them in the past month -since I've kicked off with brewing again - and always quick shipping. Last order one item got left out, a plastic thief,... I called and spoke with someone there and with no hassle whatsoever they shipped it...

How long have you let the bottles sit before opening? Yeah - the waiting is the toughest part, but time does work its thing. I'm waiting on a stubborn batch right now as a matter of fact ('I've drunk a bunch flat in the name of 'monitoring progress') :tank: