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Fore sale: Barley crusher, lightly used. Has cosmetic water marks on the base, but mechanically is like new. $80 plus shipping.

Almost missed this! I was looking at this thread, and just happened to notice the other thread... Ordered a spare BIAB and 4 more dry hop socks. Thanks!

Any chance of a Black Friday sale coming up? Inquiring BIABers want to know...

Count me in!

Everything seemed to work just fine. I turned off the pump once boiling began, and then turned it back on for the final 5 minutes to make sure the lines were sanitized. (Although the re-circulation during heating up to boiling temps probably was enough to kill anything nasty...) I'm going to...

I'm brewing this afternoon--I'll give this a try. If it works, it will be less wear on the pump.

This is interesting. I haven't ever thought about cavitation by boiling wort. I have a recirc system (with the temp probe on the outlet), and I ahve been recirculating during the whole boil with no problems. If you stop circulating once boiling begins, how do you make sure that the wort in...

I'm in! I'll decide when I win!

If you are thinking about going to electric, you also need to think about the minimum batch size you want to make. A larger kettle will mean a larger minimum size. I have a Spike 10g electric kettle (which I love). I had him custom-make a tri-clover fitting at the bottom for the element...

Your way is good too. That is the exact same setup I used before I bought my Sanke FV.

No worries. I was just concerned that I might be doing something wrong. But I don't use carboys--I ferment in a 1/4 bbl Sanke and pressure-transfer to Sanke sixtels for dry-hopping and conditioning before cold-crashing. So hopefully I get minimal oxidation. It's always fun to learn new...

I'm not meaning to be argumentative, and I have no stake in this, but why do you say this? It doesn't have to be this way. Why not flush the carboy with CO2, carefully rack from primary, then flush the headspace with CO2 before putting on the ferm lock? That's what I thought petemoss was...

Why? What else does a FULL secondary provide? I have only room for one FV in my FC, so after 10 days (or so) I rack to a CO2-purged keg and let the fermentation finish and add dry hops. (No fruit beer for me, either.) I am usually putting 3 gal of beer into a 5-gal keg, with the headspace...

If you can't pop the ring using a small screwdriver in the slot, use a right-angle pick to get it started http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-pick-and-hook-set-66836.html

I do. I used cornys for a long time, but now I have all sixtels, and I like the simplicity. The dry-hopping is a little challenging to get the bag in and out (and be SURE to use a bag!), but they are super-easy to keep clean, and you can tap a commercial keg if you want to. Carbing through...

Thanks for the link! I had no idea it would be so easy to get that spring out! Everything is cleaned up now. Cheers!:mug:

Adding hop pellets to a Sanke keg for dry-hopping without using a bag, because, hey, the spear has a big diameter, and it can't get clogged, right? and not realizing that there actually is a really small gap that is created when the Sanke tap is opened, which caused the inside of the spear to...

It's bubbling away right now, so I'll see in a few weeks.

I tried a coarser crush this weekend. I have a 10-gal e-kettle and use BIAB with re-circulation. I have only made small batches so far (3 gal), and I haven't seen any of the flow restriction problems reported in this thread (yet). But as folks in this thread were saying that a larger gap...

Do you have a gap between your basket and the kettle wall? It seems like even though it's not going through the grain, as long as there is a path for the wort to flow outside of the bag, it should keep flowing, and keep the grains at the right temp.