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I’m doing exactly the same!

When you say top screen, are you referring to the fine mesh screen thats placed in the bottom of the mash pipe or the one that goes on top? I’m using both bottom screens and not the top.

No problem! I tried to put the silicone ring on the false bottom once, then gave up and put it away - it really didn’t fit, at least for me. I only see issues with hot break. I boil with both elements on, some people use only one element once the wort reaches boil. With a 120v unit I get a...

I have the 35L, am very satisfied with it. 1) I don’t have an issue with the pump clogging, although I use a hop spider. Many people who throw the hops in the boil have issues with the pump. I’m using the stock false bottom with the screen over it and do make a point to keep the malt in the...

Let us know the results...

A lot of people use higher ratios, above 2, but Robobrew 35L is limiting in that respect. Does it potentially improve efficiency?

My default with BeerSmith has always been 1.7 but I’ll drop it when I have a large grain bill, maybe 1.6. Never higher than 1.7, I’ve never considered raising it. What have you been using up till now?

Awesome! I've been meaning to update, I've brewed 4 batches since returning from my road trip: mill gap set to 0.032", center pipe removed: double IPA, Belgian Dark Strong, ESB, Pale Ale. My brewhouse efficiencies have been 76%, 74%, 83%, 74%. I'm hoping to maintain that trend! I'm real pleased...

That’s quite a pile! I just can’t bring myself to throw them in.

I hear ya. I bought in 3 years ago and watched it evolve. Seems to me a lot of the parts are interchangeable.

Robobrew and Brewzilla are 2 brands from the same company. Was Robobrew, now Brewzilla. I’m assuming that the Robobrew 3.0 35L (the one I measured) is the same as Brewzilla 3.1 35L however it’s up to you to verify that. I don’t know what a Digimash is. EDIT: Williams Brewing puts the malt pipe...

I gave you that dimension a few days ago, for a Robobrew 3.0 (30 L): Robobrew 3.0 IDs - malt pipe 10.5”, brew kettle 11.75”

I brew a lot of hoppy IPAs, got a hop spider by my third Robobrew session and am pretty obsessed with keeping grain out of the boil. I don’t plug the pump any more (except once recently when I was convinced it was plugged only to realize later I had the valve closed)

Brew day today: 20 min whirlpool (hop stand) - end temp 190 F. The JaDeD Scilla took it from 190 F to 70 F in 8 minutes. Last few degrees were slow (water temp was 64 F)

The predominant approach uses HDPE cubes for cooling the wort then transfer to a fermentation vessel after cooling. With plastic cubes you can compress all the air out of the headspace and touch all surfaces with hot wort for sanitizing purposes.

Robobrew 3.0 IDs - malt pipe 10.5”, brew kettle 11.75” As you’re talking about chilling, assume it’s the brew kettle you’re interested in.

Agree, that JaDeD chiller cost some $$ and could drive people to no-chill. I don't think you can or should use the AIO system as a fermentation vessel though. I can see doing no-chill if you live in a drought-prone area, are paying $$ for your tap water, or if you're in a high heat area and the...

I’ve never considered no chill. What are the advantages that you perceive? Why does it fall in line with all in one brewing?

I think the two elements are either “on” or “off”, so if you set the temperature to a few degrees above boiling and as long as the relays aren’t tripping off and on, you’re getting max heat,

The Scylla is smaller, a good amount of room in the robobrew. I’ll time mine when I brew next, although recently I’ve been letting the wort cool for quite a while on its own (with whirlpool attachment) to better utilize my whirlpool hops.